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15' Whaler Rebuild
Kayaken
#41 Print Post
Posted on 08/01/15 - 3:21 AM
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Tried to remove the Norman pin but still having problems. Do I grip each side and turn counterclockwise in opposing sides? I tried that but the pin just spins. Does it need pb blaster?

As for the deck stripping,it was recommended to use thinner in addition to the citristrp along with a toothbrush and scrub the floors. Will paint thinner hurt the gelcoat?

 
ernest brooks
#42 Print Post
Posted on 08/01/15 - 6:44 AM
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Kayaken; The Norman pin has standard threads. Each end screws into a piece of threaded rod in the middle so there's three pieces altogether. I had to use a pair of vice grips on each end at the same time to hold it from spinning. And I think I used some folded up cardboard to protect the ends from the vice grips claws so as not to gouge it. I think I still did a tiny bit but luckily was able to file the scratches out. You might need to soak the threads with a little WD-40 or equivelent. Mineral spirits or paint thinner won't harm gelcoat provided the gelcoat is in good condition. If its old and chalky it might soak in and be a problem if you want to paint over it, depending on the type of paint you'd use. I think paint thinner is an oil based product. good luck, Ernesto. 1979 custom sport 15'


Edited by ernest brooks on 08/01/15 - 8:49 AM
 
Kayaken
#43 Print Post
Posted on 12/29/15 - 7:02 PM
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It's been awhile but I've made some progress. I finally gave up on the citri strip on the anti skid floor as it was ineffective. So I took a grinding wheel and went to town. All the antiskid is off just in time for the winter. Since I don't have a heated garage, I'll have to wait until early spring to sand the boat down with an orbital sander to smooth all the pits in the gelcoat left by the citristrip.

In the spring, my biggest unknown is what to do with an apparent repair by the previous owner at the back corner of the boat where the left side meets the transom. Not sure if I should leave it alone or tear it apart and try to "improve" the repair. It looks like the repair is delaminating a bit at the edges so my gut is telling me to tear into it. But I figured I would try to get some advice from members here.

Here are some pictures of the questionable corner:

http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/o...gbu6s.jpeg

http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/o...9mnup.jpeg

http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/o...leqlc.jpeg

 
Kayaken
#44 Print Post
Posted on 01/10/16 - 6:40 PM
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Wondering if any one could reply with guidance. Thanks

 
Perichbrothers
#45 Print Post
Posted on 01/10/16 - 10:11 PM
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Last year I renovated a 1970 17',
that was in extremely poor condition.
I redid dozens of poorly done FG repairs,
the type that are slapped on without proper gelcoat grinding prep,
and can be peeled off with a razor blade.
Of course after paint,
the 3 spots that I didn't fix,
had the slightest beginnings of cracking.
Now they're completely ground down and re glassed,
but sucks to have obvious patches when I knew better.
Fortunately it's more a work boat than a show boat.

For repairs I used the west systems slow cure,
a combo of mat and cloth depending on thickness,
and system 3 quick fair epoxy filler for smoothing.
A proline epoxy primer on the inside,
with roll and tipped awlgrip LP whaler blue.
TP


Edited by Perichbrothers on 01/10/16 - 10:17 PM
 
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