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15' Whaler Rebuild
Kayaken
#1 Print Post
Posted on 06/25/15 - 6:01 AM
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Greetings everyone. I'm new and when I say new, I mean new to boats and whalers. I recently purchased a 1981 Whaler that was in rough shape but I love pain.

Goal: August 30th to have the boat completed.

Here is what I have:

- Seems to be leak free on the bottom with no damage
- Gelcoat is flaking off most places on the top
- Some spots on the top have been repaired but not well
- Corner of transom appears to be damaged, but I'll have to do some detective work and explore what was repaired.
- Wood is rotted so all wood will have to be replaced. Looks like the prior owner tried to rebuild with oak. I'm pretty handy with woodworking and will be rebuildingit from scratch. Can anyone help me out and let me know if there any detailed plans / prints? If not, could anyone send me pictures of their interior?

Questions:
- If I want to re-gelcoat, what's the best way to sand/grind off the top and reapply gelcoat later?
- I've decided on epoxy repairs but it appears the previous owner might have used either polyester adhesives or bondo. Can't tell as I dont' have experience with either. Do you recommend grinding down what was done and redoing the repairs? Going to use West Epoxy as I have some experience with that.
- Need to take off rubrails. Any advice? Is it easy to reuse once all the repairs have been done? Should I screw or rivet?

Thanks in advance for your patience.

 
bennythomson
#2 Print Post
Posted on 06/25/15 - 7:54 AM
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Pictures are helpful.

If you grind off the gelcoat, look into having the interior LineX-ed. They look great and are super durable.


1967 Whaler 13
 
ernest brooks
#3 Print Post
Posted on 06/25/15 - 7:58 AM
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Hello Mr. Kayaken If your boat is like mine was I'd say "RUN FOR THE HILLS" Just kidding. Although my 15 footer needed extensive repairs topside, I have enjoyed the whole process of rebuilding. I'm probably crazy. Anyway using an angle grinder, I found that a flap disc, 40 or 60 grit made short work of the gelcoat. But care is needed when grinding. Those discs can be aggressive. I did the entire topside with one, except the transom which was in good shape. Hope this helps you. Ernesto.

 
jgortva
#4 Print Post
Posted on 06/25/15 - 3:07 PM
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Are you sure it is Gel Coat and the boat has not been previously repainted? I have never seen Gel Coat, "Flake".

 
Binkie
#5 Print Post
Posted on 06/27/15 - 4:37 AM
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Goal: August 30th to have the boat completed

August 30, 20??


Rich
 
ernest brooks
#6 Print Post
Posted on 06/27/15 - 9:41 AM
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Pretty funny. Yeah I thought I'd be done with my 15 in the summer that I bought it. Just now purchased the primer. Its been 3 years now. Ha!

 
Kayaken
#7 Print Post
Posted on 06/28/15 - 8:55 AM
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Great advice on the LineX. I'll look in to that. Here are some pictures that I took this weekend. As you can see, it is in rough shape.

http://s1341.photobucket.com/user/kay...amp;page=1

I'm shooting for 2015, but the start date of the project has already been pushed out the next two months. I have to wrap up 3 other projects before I can start. I think you are right when you say the chipping may be just paint and not gelcoat. If that is the case, do I sand it off and then just apply the LineX? Also, for the transom, should I do some digging to see what was repaired? It looks pretty shoddy back there.

I may be able to get my hands on a bow rail. How do you guys feel about adding those to a boat. Does it get in teh way or does it add value?


Edited by Kayaken on 06/28/15 - 9:11 AM
 
Kayaken
#8 Print Post
Posted on 07/12/15 - 7:40 PM
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Well I finally finished three side projects and turning my attention to my build. So I started removing all of my hardware and got stuck on the console. I was hoping to remove the steering cable from the motorso I could remove everything from the boat but the motor. That was where I got stuck. I was able to sliide the steering cable out about halfway inside the motor but it would not go any further. Do I need to buy an engine lift, take the motor off just to slide the steering cable out? I have a feeling it won't slide any further since it cannot make the bend.

Here is the picture of the cable
http://s1341.photobucket.com/user/kayaken/media/Mobile%20Uploads/photo%201_zps5gfgcmhd.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

Should just leave the steering on and restore around it? What are my options?

Thanks

 
wlagarde
#9 Print Post
Posted on 07/12/15 - 7:48 PM
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Try disconnecting the cable at the steering wheel end to facilitate removing it from the engine. That said, if it were me I would remove the engine from the boat. You can hoist it off using a chain hoist: http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...to_id=1725


1976 Sport 15 w/ 2005 50hp Nissan 2 stroke
 
Kayaken
#10 Print Post
Posted on 07/13/15 - 4:04 AM
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Thanks for the tip. I will probably get a harborfreight engine hoist to do the job. I have a standard cookie cutter garage and don't think the ceiling beams would be strong enough. Don't have any experience with hoists. Would a standard hoist be tall enough? Could I leave the engine on the hoist for a month while I return the whaler with out it failing? By failing, I assume that hoists use hydraulics and I would be worried that the constant load would tax the lift.

Last, I have a 70 hp Johnson. Do I need to buy an eyebolt to screw onto the motor somewhere to use as the lift point? If so, can anyone recommend a source for this part?

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j...1904712679

Thanks

(Edit: made link clickable)


Edited by Joe Kriz on 07/13/15 - 12:09 PM
 
wlagarde
#11 Print Post
Posted on 07/13/15 - 4:12 AM
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The chain hoist I used is mechanical. I left my engine hanging there until the work was done. My engine isn't very heavy ~165#. What is the hp of your engine? A 70hp would weigh at most in the 250# range for a 4 stroke so your garage (wooden) ceiling beams should be fine provided they are 2 x 8 or more (mine were). Also, if you preferred you could build an engine stand to store it on while you do the work. See here: http://www.whalercentral.com/download...?cat_id=16


1976 Sport 15 w/ 2005 50hp Nissan 2 stroke
 
ernest brooks
#12 Print Post
Posted on 07/13/15 - 9:59 AM
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I have a old 70 evinrude two stroke on 1979 fifteen sport and had no problem tying a chain hoist to the ceiling joists and lifting engine. Made simple engine stand. Joists are 2x6. Good luck. Under the hood of the motor is a eyelet bolted to the top of the engine. Not sure about Jonson's.


(changed abbreviated year to full 4 digit year for clarification)


Edited by Joe Kriz on 07/13/15 - 12:11 PM
 
Kayaken
#13 Print Post
Posted on 07/13/15 - 7:09 PM
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Well I'm going to hit harborfreight tomorrow and buy an engine lift. I've read online that I can use a bolt puller kit and make an lift ring set up. Between the two, I think I should be all set. I'll also build an engine lift to sit it on as well. Sounds like a fun mini project. Thanks for the advice.

Oh yeah, my engine is a 70 hp johnson.

 
Kayaken
#14 Print Post
Posted on 07/14/15 - 5:02 PM
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Checked my motor and noticed that there are three threaded holes on the flywheel. Looks like this:

http://s1341.photobucket.com/user/kay...=3&o=0

Believe the harborfreight flywheel puller along with the eyebolt should work correct? I've located a couple of engine hoists (cherry pickers) and hope to pick one up this weekend. Weekend project is to make an engine stand and goal is to have the engine off in one week.

Anything I should know before I move forward? Those threaded holes seem pretty small and I worry about the weight vs thread vs bolt strength. I assume that is what they are for though right?

 
wlagarde
#15 Print Post
Posted on 07/14/15 - 8:09 PM
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Are you sure there isn't lifting eye located somewhere?


1976 Sport 15 w/ 2005 50hp Nissan 2 stroke
 
Weatherly
#16 Print Post
Posted on 07/14/15 - 9:28 PM
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Kayaken: Congratulations on your acquisition of a Boston Whaler 15.

I noticed a few things in your photographs.

Your Johnson 70 has a lifting ring; it is visible in the photograph of the flywheel, located on the left border of the photograph.

Your hull has flaking paint, not flaking gelcoat.

It looks like you will need to repair poorly done repairs and remove the peeling paint. Once the paint is removed and the patches are exposed, you will be in a better position to fully evaluate the condition of your hull.

You should post more photographs of your boat so other members can give you further advice on how to proceed with your project.


Edited by Weatherly on 07/14/15 - 9:29 PM
 
dgoodhue
#17 Print Post
Posted on 07/15/15 - 12:17 AM
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You can use the existing loop but it won't lift the motor vertically. I used the loop and an engine lift to install my jackplate. It wasn't that bad; if you have a 2nd set of hands it would be helpful. I recently bought the OMC flywheel puller and lifting eye to remove the flywheel and help install the power head (which I had removed).


Dave
 
Kayaken
#18 Print Post
Posted on 07/15/15 - 6:45 AM
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Thanks for the heads up on the lift ring. I'll definitely take some more pictures of the boat now that I'm getting more accustomed to using photobucket.

Now as far as building a stand, if I bought an engine lift, could I just hang it on that for a period of 2 months while I repair the boat? Or would the hydraulics start to fail? I was thinking that I could lower it a bit so the skeg is resting on a board or something soft.

 
Weatherly
#19 Print Post
Posted on 07/15/15 - 7:01 AM
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You actually do not need to "lift" the motor to remove it. my method of static removal of an outboard is simple. I have an a-frame made of 2x6 screwed onto a pallet. I lower the bow to the ground via the trailer dolly. Then I set a chain and shackle to the a-frame and lift ring on the motor. I loosen/remove the lower engine bolts/nuts. Raise the trailer dolly/bow to put tension on the static chain of the a-frame. Remove top transom bolts/nuts. raise the trailer dolly all the way up, resulting in transom lowering and motor clearing the top of the transom. I have the base pallet set on a mechanic's creeper so I can move the motor away from the boat. Final point, a J70 only weighs 248 lbs.

 
wlagarde
#20 Print Post
Posted on 07/15/15 - 10:37 AM
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The chain hoist is cheap. It will also be easier to put the motor on and off this way as you have more control although weatherly's method will work.


1976 Sport 15 w/ 2005 50hp Nissan 2 stroke
 
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