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Adding a 2nd Battery to a 17 Outrage II
AlexB413
#1 Print Post
Posted on 06/18/15 - 1:30 PM
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I am considering adding a second battery to my 1999 17 Outrage II. I had an experience last season were I arrived at the marina and found my 2 year old battery was dead and I needed to borrow the yard’s booster. There appears to be enough room under the console, although it will get a little tighter with 2 boxes and additional cables.
Does anyone have view on adding a second battery to a boat this size? I am curious if the additional weight, lose of space and cost of switch, cables, etc. will be worth it or should I just have my own booster on standby in the car?

 
Phil T
#2 Print Post
Posted on 06/18/15 - 1:54 PM
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Why was the battery dead? Have you checked for a parasitic drain in the electrical system?

Go with the booster pack.

Adding a 2nd battery is expensive. Requires new switch, fuse, cables etc. Added hassle of winter storage
Other than starting, is there a real need?

I would guesstimate $300 in materials and 4-5 hrs to DIY (assuming knowledge).

 
huckelberry145
#3 Print Post
Posted on 06/18/15 - 2:56 PM
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My setup in my 15' is the cranking battery is exclusive to the engine, and my second battery runs everything console forward including the trolling motor. The batteries are hooked to a Perko switch so I can charge either one while underway. The instructions provided with the switch specifically stated that the device is a "make before break" switch so I can crank with the good battery, switch to the weak one and charge it while underway. If it didn't close the circuit before swapping batteries there is a chance of frying the engine charging circuits. I did this because of the trolling motor and worries of it killing the battery. If you don't have circuits that draw a decent amount of current, like bait well pumps, CD player and the aforementioned trolling motor, I would just put a on off switch under the console to cut the power when not in use. Otherwise a second battery might be a good idea.

 
DennisVollrath
#4 Print Post
Posted on 06/18/15 - 3:10 PM
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I agree with Phil. Without knowing why a relatively good battery was dead, adding a second battery is just adding complication. What loads are present when the boat is not being used? Any relatively cheap voltmeter can measure small current values, and are a really valuable tool in a boater's bag of tricks. Hook one up inline with the battery when you think everything is off and see if there is any current draw.

I just reported my experience with a faulty bilge pump in another thread, and that led to a dead battery on 2 occasions for me (once with a brand new one).

I do carry a booster pack in my car (and in the boat for any significant outings). They are much cheaper and less complicated than adding a second battery if it's just a dead starter that concerns you. If your house loads are much more significant, then a house battery should be considered.

Dennis


1985 Outrage 18 with Suzuki DF140A
 
porthole2
#5 Print Post
Posted on 07/01/15 - 1:09 AM
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On My 97 Outrage 17 I moved the oil tank into the console. Had no desire to add another battery in there.
So, I installed a battery disconnect switch so everything but the bilge pump was off when the boat was idled.
I also added a Blue Sea low voltage disconnect relay for all the accessories. That saves the battery from being run down by having lights, radios, electronics on all day.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/7635/m-LVD_Low_Voltage_Disconnect
I also added an on board single Marinco battery charger.

All together the above was less cost then a 2nd battery and had the added advantage of being able to charge the battery and get me started if I left everything on too long.




Thanks, Duane
 
harwichboy
#6 Print Post
Posted on 07/21/15 - 11:44 AM
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I am replacing a battery after only 2 seasons. I did not know that older outboards ('86 Mercury) were not suited for maintenance-free batteries (or vis versa). They use an unregulated rectifier in the charging path that produces "spikey" charging - reducing useful life..

There are aftermarket Regulated Rectifiers for many older outboards, but I have not found one for mine. I am reviewing the Bluesea and Guest specifications to see if a smart battery switch (isolator, switch) could also smooth out the spikey charging.


Neil Henry - 1972 Nauset 16 - 2018 Suzuki 60HP
 
gchuba
#7 Print Post
Posted on 07/21/15 - 10:31 PM
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I like/have the two battery set up but would only install the Blue Sea Dual Battery Plus with an ACR. Look on their website for the specs, schematics, and how it works. What the Blue Sea does automatically the Perko requires diligent owner operator use and understanding. That being said.....do trace or uncover the culprit for draining the battery. A well designed single battery system for the size of your hull would be adequate, I happen to like a hard wired second battery for various reasons on my boat (separates electronics, built in jump, etc....). My boat is also 22' with a cuddy.
Garris

 
Cape Fear
#8 Print Post
Posted on 07/22/15 - 7:38 PM
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This is what the service manual for my 1989 Mercury says about testing the voltage regulator... "Check battery voltage at battery with engine running. If battery voltage is above 14.5 volts, replace voltage regulator. Check condition of battery as overcharging may have damaged battery" There are more steps to test the amps, should be between 7-9 amps output (with running voltage at battery 13.5 or less for test accuracy).


Edited by Cape Fear on 07/22/15 - 7:43 PM
 
Donald Trotta
#9 Print Post
Posted on 07/24/15 - 12:04 PM
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survey your electrical requirements, if kept in water with a bilge pump, etc., that should be a prime consideration, also how far off shore you may go. regards Don T


DPT
 
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