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Hardtop/half tower for 2000 23 Conquest
ldilmore
#1 Print Post
Posted on 02/28/15 - 7:56 PM
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Will the hard top from a 235 Conquest fit on a 2000 23 Conquest?

 
gchuba
#2 Print Post
Posted on 03/01/15 - 7:12 AM
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I am adapting a hardtop from a late 80's 27 ft Revenge to a 22 ft 1979 Revenge. Of the 8 points of attachment, 4 swapped over. They allowed me to attach the top and alter the other 4 to conform to my hull. I viewed pictures of the 235 and 2000 23 ft Conquests and it appears they altered the factory reinforcement/tubing in the later model to aid the viewing for starboard and port sides. Measure the bearing point distances on the one available and measure your boat. It appears that the attaching areas look very similar in the two hardtops. You may have to modify the angles of the mounting plates, maybe not. Talk to Whaler and find out what (if any) cabin designs were made in the two models. If the cabin molds are identical for the two models an easy swap out. They both look very similar in pictures. I think you would be extremely lucky if the enclosure windows swap out if any alterations. The shininess in the aluminum comes from anodizing so new welds and the areas around (would look different. Anodizing makes the aluminum non conductive so you have to grind the surrounding area for prep. The project looks doable if the price is right for the used top
Garris

 
ldilmore
#3 Print Post
Posted on 03/01/15 - 12:06 PM
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Thanks so much for your response to my question! I am contacting Boston Whaler with these questions. Thanks!,,

 
gchuba
#4 Print Post
Posted on 03/02/15 - 8:13 AM
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If it ends up you purchase the hardtop and it needs modifications, please re-open this thread. Would be more than willing to offer tips. Whatever you do, do not immediately start cutting.
Garris

 
gchuba
#5 Print Post
Posted on 03/03/15 - 9:12 AM
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I was sent a private email from a member who told me that Boston Whaler did not make a 27 ft Revenge series in the 80's. If there was one, to supply pictures. My knowledge and history of the hardtop I acquired was a Craigslist ad I responded to on a Saturday evening and my picking up the hardtop the following Monday. I may have assumed it was a 27 ft Revenge, now that I reflect, it was probably a cuddy cabin Guardian from that vintage. The owner had 3 plus Guardian series of different year Whalers in his working fleet for commercial fishing. I did see the Whaler he took the cuddy cabin and hardtop off of, create a raised walk around center console (deck raised for storage). A pretty awesome looking fishing machine with either a Whaler Drive or Armstrong bracket. $250 for the hardtop, and off I went with no idea it would work.......well, my intuition was correct and it is as I stated. Four out of the eight bearing points usable, I temporarily installed the hardtop with the top off the framework (way to heavy for my boat). I am now modifying the other 4 attachments while in place.

My point in presenting this is....the lines and modifications in the different series of Whaler's in a given era.....there is an interchangeability of parts. The Guardian cubby had a similar cabin to my Revenge. Actually quite remarkable that it worked at all. Heck, my Revenge is slapped on the Outrage hull and both boats can interchange from on to the other.

If the hardtop is not the perfect match with the Conquests, and you have enough ingenuity, I am pretty sure it would work. Take the weight off the framework and see how it rests on the cabin. Have rags/socks taped onto the bearing ends and rest it on the boat. Building some temporary cribbing to support the framework so none of the legs are bearing is also an option.

The fun of working on a boat is it is your boat. Every modification or work done it is correct. Keeping it factory original or, what Sea Horse has done with his, are both just as beautiful. So if I used the term "27' Revenge" instead of "27' Whaler" or "27' Guardian" my mistake. Either way, I am going to have a hardtop with welds showing on my Revenge, and I am happy.

Garris

edit: If the lengths work but the angles of attachment are off you do not have to remove the collar at the end of the pipe stand that attaches to the boat. I use a 4" angle grinder and cut 2/3 of the weld and then screw down the collar. I only do lay out on the boat. Unless I can cover the area I do not like cutting spoils on the boat. The weld gives a little and it matches the contour of where it is mounting. Gently remove the piece and weld it without bumping the collar. It then mounts flush. Welding aluminum is forgiving with gaps.


Edited by gchuba on 03/03/15 - 11:46 AM
 
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