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Rub rail and wire run for lights
CaptSpike	#1  Posted on 11/01/14 - 10:09 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 29 Comments: 1 Joined: 03/12/11	I'm about to finish up my restore of a 1969 13' standard that my father in-law bought new. Today while checking out what he had left for wiring I realized the stern wiring was to low in the access hole to be able to add more wire to the end. So I'm now thinking of installing the upgraded rub rail (Had purchased original adhered on rub rail already)so I can run new wires from bow to stern. I imagine I'll just fill the existing hole in the stern. My question is what size wire is run? Is it placed in the track before assembling the outer rail section (might be a stupid question)? Lastly since I already have the original L shaped rub rail I believe I would only need the other two pieces to complete a set for the earlier upgrade (using the L original first then the other two pieces over it)? Any good step by step documentation of this? Thanks Spike Restoration was much harder than I anticipated.....
whalerman	#2  Posted on 11/01/14 - 1:15 PM
Member Posts: 540 Comments: 5 Joined: 06/26/07	I think I used number 14 ga. wire for the bow light and make sure you use marine grade wire which is tinned to help fight corrosion. As for the rub rail , I don't think that you can aply the "newer"one over the one piece glue on. Probably wouldn't fit right to begin with. The wire sits behind the black outer piece of the "newer" rub rails. THOM : 1999 Outrage 18, 2012 E-TEC 150, 2012 EZ Loader trailer
blacksmithdog	#3  Posted on 11/02/14 - 4:02 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 417 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/26/06	CaptSpike: I didn't see your e-mail address in your profile, or I would have e-mailed you. I re-did the rubrail on my 15' GLS a couple of years ago. I re-did the wiring as well. I bought a whole roll of tinned marine wire so I obviously have "some" left over. Take your measurement of what you need and add a few feet, and e-mail me (my e-mail address is in my profile) the length and your snail mail address and I'll send you what you need.
CaptSpike	#4  Posted on 11/02/14 - 4:55 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 29 Comments: 1 Joined: 03/12/11	Appreciate the offer on the wire. I emailed you. As for the old adhered rub rail under the new one that is what I read is used on any pre-1972 models to make the new rub rail fit. I'll confirm Monday when I call Twin Cities marine. Thanks, Edited by Joe Kriz on 07/29/16 - 6:38 PM Restoration was much harder than I anticipated.....
CaptSpike	#5  Posted on 11/07/14 - 2:28 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 29 Comments: 1 Joined: 03/12/11	I got the wire late yesterday and the rub rail late today. This weekend the project should be taken on. Thanks again for the wire. Also after contacting twin cites marine the old rub rail is NOT that same as the piece used in the three parts rub rail upgrade. I saw one video where the installer used the short end of the L rail on top. If I do that I think the L will not cover some imperfections in the surface where the old original rub rail was. Removal of the old rub rail caused voids that I didn't bother to fill all of because my intent was to use the original and I figured the adhesive in those voids would aide in holding the rub rail. If I put the long end of the L on top then it is the same length as the original. Do you think the guys in the video might have had the L piece installed wrong? Spike Restoration was much harder than I anticipated.....
CaptSpike	#6  Posted on 11/07/14 - 2:31 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 29 Comments: 1 Joined: 03/12/11	Just answered my own question after reading my linked page above. He definitely had it upside down. Video I saw link here:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=turAg7...urAg79PcRs Maybe because his wasn't the same as mine the components get installed differently? Spike Restoration was much harder than I anticipated.....
wlagarde	#7  Posted on 11/07/14 - 3:10 PM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 442 Comments: 2 Joined: 07/21/13	Here is an example of rub rail install on a 15: http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...lbum_id=66 1976 Sport 15 w/ 2005 50hp Nissan 2 stroke
CaptSpike	#8  Posted on 11/08/14 - 6:44 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 29 Comments: 1 Joined: 03/12/11	Thanks for the link and instructions. I'll post pictures of how it came out on my personal page. I'm doing it tomorrow. Spike Restoration was much harder than I anticipated.....
CaptSpike	#9  Posted on 11/10/14 - 1:13 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 29 Comments: 1 Joined: 03/12/11	Rub rail complete! It wasn't easy but it wasn't hard either. Mistakes were made and the following is my experience. I hope someone else will benefit from my experience. I'll try to keep this as brief as possible. I started Saturday night by unrolling the L piece and taping it in position as directed in the directions supplied by wlagarde (thank you). Sunday morning my help arrived. I gave him the directions to familiarize himself with the process (he didn't read them....). Anyway we started at the Port stern and started to clamp the receiver along the gunnel. I had filled a cooler with hot water and placed the receiver in it even though it didn't cover the whole roll I figured anything was better than nothing. First four rivets went in slick as you know what. Then I remembered we forgot to use sealant on them......this is why all people involved should be familiar with the process. So when one person forgets something the other might recall it.... Ok we drill out the heads set rivets into the foam install new rivets with sealant applied. We made our way slowly to the bow making sure everything was right as we went. Up at the bow we used a heat gun to heat the receiver and bend it around the bow. I found that we couldn't use clamps at the bow due to the fact that the clamp would pull the receiver up off the gunnel, so we heated the receiver and while my helper held the receiver in place I would ensure it was down on the top of the gunnel and drill and rivet as we went along. It was a tedious process making the turns but we did OK making sure both the bottom and the top of the receiver matched the contour of the boat. I could see where that certainly could have been an issue. So now we are headed down the home stretch. We started to use the clamps again and were going along like a well oiled machine........Then when my helper drilled a hole for the rivet it broke thru the top of the gunnel! At first I was all over him for not drilling a straight hole. We peeled the receiver back put tap over the hole and I filled it with resin. While we waited for the resin to cure I went back to check the previous are we had worked to ensure there were no issues. What I found was the L piece was not flush to the top of the gunnel and 3 ft back! Needless to say we needed to drill out the rivets back to where it went bad and seal the badly placed rivets and then re-clamp and drill new holes and rivet the L piece and receiver flush to the top. You need to really make sure you don't let your guard down in reference to that. Everything visually apeared to be flush by eye when in fact we were up just enough to cause us some unneeded rework. Once all the spots were repaired we continued on finishing the receiver mounting. At this point I trimmed the receiver and L piece flush to the stern using a fine grade hacksaw making sure not to damage the stern with the blade. Next step was to drill the holes for the wire and run the wire. That went fairly painlessly. No we were ready to insert the rub rail. We used the heat gun and that helped immensly. We went along and after a while and some sore fingers from manipulating the rub rail into the receiver we had it installed. It was at this point I remembered I had wanted to hit the top of the rivets with sealer as well.....yup we forgot. We then finished the ends on each side and called it a night. Around midnight I woke up and realized I never sealed the holes for the wires! I was so ticked off at myself for forgetting so many basic elements in the job that I couldn't get back to sleep until after 2 am...... 6 am I woke up and headed straight to the garage. I peeled back the side where the wire was run. Sealed the bow hole and reinstalled the rub rail sealing the tops of the rivets as I had planned as I went along. It actually installed much easier the second time around. Everything always goes faster the second time. I am in the process of installing the lights now. Rub rail looks great I just wish I had paid more attn during the process and not made the mistakes we did. Anyway if you take anything away from my experience make sure dot the i's and cross the t's. Thanks for everyone's guidance and special thanks to blacksmithdog for sending me some wire! I'll add a picture to my personal page once the lights are installed. Spike Restoration was much harder than I anticipated.....
wlagarde	#10  Posted on 11/10/14 - 2:17 PM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 442 Comments: 2 Joined: 07/21/13	Spike - Glad to hear it worked out and I'm sure it looks great. If it helps any you should know I had some of the same pitfalls on my job. That said, its part of the territory that comes with owning/restoring a classic whaler - you learn as you go. 1976 Sport 15 w/ 2005 50hp Nissan 2 stroke
blacksmithdog	#11  Posted on 11/12/14 - 2:47 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 417 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/26/06	We need pictures of the the new rail in place!!!!! Your word "tedious" for this job is appropriate, and you have to pay attention every step of the way. I think we drilled through the gunnel once as well.
CaptSpike	#12  Posted on 11/16/14 - 5:16 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 29 Comments: 1 Joined: 03/12/11	Pictures have been updated on my personal page. All the pictures I have of the restore are hosted here: http://www.nhanglers.com/Gallery/Fish...er-restore Thanks again to this site and all the information here. Forum members have been a big help. You don't find that everywhere. Thanks again to everyone. Spike Restoration was much harder than I anticipated.....