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best location to drill hull
captn chumbucket	#1  Posted on 09/11/14 - 5:02 PM
Member Posts: 20 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/15/10	I have a 1970 13' side console that has ingested gallons of water. Just before I pulled it out of the water, with only a battery and 40hp, the stern was squatting to about 2" from the bottom of the Whaler decal. Empty screw holes and a coupe of spots on the sole that have no gel coat and bare mat is visible. It's in my garage and I'm wondering where the best place to drill a/some weep hole(s)? Inside at the transom, inside in the drain well, outside at the bottom of the transom or on the bottom of the hull at the transom? Any input or past experiences would be greatly appreciated. Thanx
ritzyrags	#2  Posted on 09/11/14 - 9:47 PM
Member Project Albums Posts: 1003 Comments: 36 Joined: 06/18/08	Let gravity and time do for this hull what it does to all materials. To have a constant heated area to store the hull standing on it's stern against a beam should dry it within some years. To open the structures would hasten the process. As moisture has seeped in, years of drying should slowly remove the water in the old Heat /Time / Temperature combustion formula. Evaporation will be a slow motion principle of combustion. Dont lie Dont Cheat And dont give up..
captn chumbucket	#3  Posted on 09/12/14 - 6:33 AM
Member Posts: 20 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/15/10	Thanks for the input Ritzy, however at my age, a few years and I would need a wheel chair ramp to use it. Presently I have the bow light about 6' above the floor with the bottom of the transom 16" above. After two days no water has seeped out. Would not drilling a hole(s) in the the hull expedite the drying time through escape rather than evaporation? I would appreciate if you(anyone) can tell me if that method would work and size & placement of these weep holes. Thanx.
huckelberry145	#4  Posted on 09/12/14 - 7:09 AM
Member Posts: 401 Comments: 3 Joined: 03/10/12	Don't drill ANY holes. Carefully remove the drain tube. Elevate the bow so gravity will let the water drain/flow to the lowest point. Rig a 4-7 watt small night light bulb fixture in the drain tube hole to expedite evaporation. I would think it would be best done inside a garage or enclosed area. Time is going to be your best ally.
captn chumbucket	#5  Posted on 09/12/14 - 8:08 AM
Member Posts: 20 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/15/10	I'm inside a garage in Florida. Plus is heat I've got on my side. Humidity, not so much. Huck any estimate in time?
huckelberry145	#6  Posted on 09/12/14 - 10:15 AM
Member Posts: 401 Comments: 3 Joined: 03/10/12	I have no way of knowing. Can you find a large scale and put it under the stern? When you see a substantial amount of weight go away and it levels off then you should have it dry enough.
captn chumbucket	#7  Posted on 09/12/14 - 3:47 PM
Member Posts: 20 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/15/10	Aiming to get some help and pull the motor off this weekend in preparation of a scale trip early next week. I must have removed 4 and a half pounds of stainless screws randomly spread out throughout the boat. No sealant on any of them. But, in defense of whoever put these screws in, the mfgr. never sealed the bottoms of the oarlocks! All water was sitting in each holder, with no bottoms, waiting for the wood to suck it up. By the way, I did remove the transom drain tube and let the weeping begin. Oarlocks will not be reinstalled during this remake. I have no plans on rowing this thing.
captn chumbucket	#8  Posted on 09/14/14 - 5:44 AM
Member Posts: 20 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/15/10	Well, I (we) removed the motor, console, controls from the skiff yesterday. Also about a half a case of adult coolants. I took it to the commercial truck scales this morning and figured it out to be 340 lbs. with the Bob's 6" offset manual jack plate still on. My research shows the jack plate to be about 20 lbs. So at 320 +/- 10 or 15lbs I should be pretty close to in the correct range. Can anyone recommend anything to do for those 10/15lbs? I want to thank those that contributed to this. I will take some photos of present, during, and hopefully completed project to post in the future.
Phil T	#9  Posted on 09/14/14 - 5:58 AM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 6986 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	Published weights were approximates with many members reporting their boats were more. For only 10-15 lbs. many will say you are good. Seal ALL holes, cracks and exposed fiberglass. A 6" setback bracket is the reason your stern heavy. Moving a 40 hp motor that far behind the transom is shifting the static trim way way back. I would think twice on stressing a transom that's 45 years old like that. I would remove the bracket, remount the engine and splash and observe hull's static trim. Edited by Phil T on 09/14/14 - 6:02 AM
Weatherly	#10  Posted on 09/14/14 - 11:17 AM
Member Posts: 752 Comments: 4 Joined: 12/31/06	Captn: I have a recommendation for you. Move the hull out of the garage into the sunlinght. Place the hull in the direct where the interior hull will get the most sunlight. Then place a clear piece of plastic tarp over the hull secured along the rubrail. Assuming you have holes in your interior deck, water will seep out of the hull and evaporate. I have used this method successfully to extract gallons of water from several saturated hulls in the past 2-3 years. It works even in sunny 50 degree weather; you have a greater advantage in FL sunlight.
captn chumbucket	#11  Posted on 09/14/14 - 4:34 PM
Member Posts: 20 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/15/10	Weatherly, Thanks for the input. While I'm doing busy work with the motor and fabricating the decks I'll give it a shot. Phil, With the notched transom the motor would sit too low. Before I have to fill in the notch I am going to play around with fuel tank and batteries placement. I think by moving them forward will compensated for the 6" setback Thanx
Phil T	#12  Posted on 09/15/14 - 6:20 AM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 6986 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	Are you saying that your model takes a 15" shaft and you installed a 20" shaft motor? Is it a 2 stroke or a 4 stroke? With a long shaft 2 stroke 40 hp, a setback bracket, 2 batteries and a fuel tank, I now understand why the stern is so low. It's just too much weight in the stern for that hull.
captn chumbucket	#13  Posted on 09/15/14 - 7:06 AM
Member Posts: 20 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/15/10	Checking my serial number I find that it is a 1969, not 1970. It has the old notched transom and the straight, full width bulkhead for the motor well. The boat came with the motor which is a 20" shaft so the reason why the original owner installed the jackplate. Why a 6" setback; I couldn't tell you. I'm headed to the ramp with two batteries, 12 gals. of fuel and some pencils. I will move things around until what I perceive as "pretty good" then mark the water line. I'll keep ya posted.
captn chumbucket	#14  Posted on 09/16/14 - 2:55 AM
Member Posts: 20 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/15/10	Took the skiff to the ramp yesterday when nobody was around. I was able to unload it, get in the water with my pencil and mark the water line where she floats empty. At the transom, the waterline is just a little (3/4"+/-) over the top of the drain tube. I now do not think I have much water in the hull. As a matter of fact it appears the stern may be sitting a bit higher than the bow. I want to thank all that have responded to my questions so far. I'm sure I'll have more as this project continues. Pressure cleaning today, then starting on deck templates. If I ever figure out how to download pictures from my phone to my laptop I'll try yo post. the Capt'n.
Phil T	#15  Posted on 09/16/14 - 5:20 AM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 6986 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	Create an account on a photo hosting site (google, flicker etc), upload photos and then paste a link.
captn chumbucket	#16  Posted on 09/17/14 - 4:27 AM
Member Posts: 20 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/15/10	Here goes a before & after to show why I think the hull may be pretty dry: Before: http://s1095.photobucket.com/user/Cap...9.jpg.html Bare Hull: http://s1095.photobucket.com/user/Cap...5.jpg.html [Moderator edited links and deleted posts on dead links] Edited by Phil T on 09/17/14 - 7:47 AM
captn chumbucket	#17  Posted on 09/17/14 - 7:03 AM
Member Posts: 20 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/15/10	Pics of before and after, sitting in the water and a few of what I will be dealing with for repairs. http://s1095.photobucket.com/user/Cap...amp;page=1 [Fixed link] Edited by Phil T on 09/17/14 - 7:46 AM
Phil T	#18  Posted on 09/17/14 - 7:50 AM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 6986 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	From the photos the hull appears really dry, factory fresh.
captn chumbucket	#19  Posted on 09/17/14 - 3:54 PM
Member Posts: 20 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/15/10	Phil, it may be dry but far from factory fresh. I have a train-load of sanding, priming & fairing before I can even think about paint. Thanks to the Mod for helping my dumb a$$ post the pics.