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Bow light wires shorted 2003 Sport 130
d5884930	#1  Posted on 08/27/14 - 3:49 PM
Member Posts: 4 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/13/14	Bow light wires shorted 2003 Sport 130 Was blowing fuses, traced it to my bow light wires going through the hull. Looks like they built the boat around the bow light wires, I pulled some, there is no conduit, looks like they are foamed in? Guessing I have to rum a new wire through the rub rail? Any thoughts? Thanks Dave
gchuba	#2  Posted on 08/27/14 - 7:57 PM
Member Posts: 1675 Comments: 0 Joined: 03/31/13	Check the continuity of the wires. Just for fun, set up the continuity tester for the positive/hot on one end and the negative on the other to see if they are truly rubbing/crossed in the inaccessible area. I would think it rare to have crossed/grounding wires in the rub rail itself. Check the accessible areas for potential villains (switch, fixture, etc...). Garris
d5884930	#3  Posted on 08/28/14 - 4:55 AM
Member Posts: 4 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/13/14	Its an intermittent short, I did measure it shorted with my volt meter, then later it was not shorted. The original wires go through the hull to the bow, I have spent hours trying to figure this out.
Whalerbob	#4  Posted on 08/29/14 - 1:44 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 311 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/07/06	On my old 13, every time I had to re wire the bow lights the wire got shorter so eventually I had to splice in an extension, maybe you have my old boat? It's not an easy job but the only way to get at those wires is to remove the rub rail... that would be the last resort but if so you'll want to search WC for the article that explains the process. You probably only need to pull it out half way so maybe not so bad.
vagent	#5  Posted on 09/13/19 - 6:29 PM
Member Posts: 4 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/13/19	I realize this is an old thread but I don't see an end other than "go through the rub rail" I'm having the same issue with a 2005 Sport 130. Blows fuse when I turn on the Nav lights. Troubleshooting indicates a short on the wire(s) to the bow light. I can successfully light the Anchor light with switch out of the picture but connection to the bow light causes the fuse to continue to blow. Disassemble the bow light and can see all the connections--nothing there appears to be causing a short. So it must be something prior to that ? ? ? ? Will continue my trouble shooting meanwhile has anyone else come up with another approach.? And, how do you go through the rub rail to do this--can't find that searching the forum. Thanks in advance, Vagent
Phil T	#6  Posted on 09/14/19 - 7:59 AM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 6986 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	Vagent - To run a new set of wires: The rubrail is two parts. A "reciever" that is riveted or screwed into the gunnel edge and a black "insert" that has grooves that accept two slots from the insert. You want to remove just the insert on one side (side with the battery) from the stern all the way to the light. Start at the stern and remove the end cap or screw. Use a plastic putty knife or screwdriver wrapped in tape (to prevent damaging the gelcoat) and pry the insert out. With your hands, pull it firmly away a little bit at a time. You will find that marine speaker wire (not regular speaker wire) has the proper size and rating to fit inside the gap between the rubrail receiver and the insert. Edited by Phil T on 09/14/19 - 8:00 AM 1992 Outrage 17 I 2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+ 2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT
vagent	#7  Posted on 09/14/19 - 9:32 AM
Member Posts: 4 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/13/19	Hi Phil T, Thanks so much for the prompt reply. Boated many years, many boats, large and small--my first Whaler. Not the best maintained in the past but I'm enjoying making it "better". Was hoping to fix the bow light without having to do the rub-rail thing, but if I must. I've looked at some other posts regarding the "rub rail". Interesting part is that I can disassemble the bow light and nothing is shorted in it--all contacts are clearly 'examanible'. Surprising that the short would be somewhere in the wire in the rub rail. I'm going to first work within the console and wiring harness to see if I can find the culprit there. The fuse in the wiring when I received it was a 3 amp. The wiring diagram I have indicates a 5 amp. I have placed a 4 amp in the fuse holder and it too blows. Appreciate you feedback and any other that might help. I'm out of town for a week so might not be responding to see how things are going for a week or so. Also interesting to see you found your boat in Norfolk VA--I live in Hampton, just across the tunnel from Norfolk (I reviewed your projects--good work) Vagent
Phil T	#8  Posted on 09/14/19 - 10:02 AM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 6986 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	V - Before embarking on a re-wire, I would: replace bulb clean fixture contacts Examine wire in stern to the battey. Examine wire end fitting which connects to the switch. If possible, cut off and re-crimp new connector. Clean (fine sandpaper) switch contacts. Verify it is the bow light that is the culprit and not the all around light. Disconnect all-around light from switch and test bow light. Any other permutations you can think of. Easier than rewire. Aside- The story of how I found my first Outrage 17 is interesting. I found my 2nd and current Outrage 17, a bit farther south, outside Danville. VA 1992 Outrage 17 I 2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+ 2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT
vagent	#9  Posted on 09/14/19 - 10:28 AM
Member Posts: 4 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/13/19	Phil T Again thanks for the prompt reply. I agree one of the last things I want to do is go into that rub rail. Will continue to troubleshoot when I return. Aside--I grew up in Chatham VA, some 17 miles North of Danville VA where you found your second Outrage--the 6-degrees gets narrower and narrower. Vagent
vagent	#10  Posted on 10/17/19 - 7:04 PM
Member Posts: 4 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/13/19	Update. After dreading going through the bow rail to troubleshoot the navigation light, I was pleasantly surprised. Found that all one has to do is remove the molded end of the bow rail on the stbd side then pull the round tubular shaped portion of the bow rail from the portion screwed to the hull and one easily gets at the wiring in the bow rail. Seems like a previous owner installed a cover and put the snap-on connectors in the bow rail. One of the screws went right through the wiring and shorted the wires together. Problem solved! Repaired the wiring, poked the round portion of the bow rail in place, and replaced the molded end of the bow rail. It was one of the easier maintenance actions I've taken on a boat :-)