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Glassing drain tubes
RogueII
#21 Print Post
Posted on 10/17/14 - 8:15 AM
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RogueII wrote:
I may just go with new drain tubes. What length is required for the 2 transom drains on a 17 Montauk? 1" x 3" or 1" x 2 7/8"?

Thanks


Can someone help me with the above?

Coating the drains with epoxy and glass and finishing it off with gelcoat would work fine and water would not get into the core. This time around for speed's sake I'm just going to brush a thinned coat of resin over the core and resleeve with the tubes, I just need clarity on the tube length.

thx

 
jvz
#22 Print Post
Posted on 10/17/14 - 1:55 PM
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Are your old ones thrashed?

Not sure on a Montauk, transom drains on my Outrage I use 3" x 1 1/4 dia. and cut them to length and flare..Thru hull drains are 1'' dia.

You can get away with a 3" and cut them to length.

Pull your old tubes out - put a new tube in, one end flared w/ or without Orings (you can buy them with one end flared), your call..
Mark it on the other end about an 1/8 (or more if using Orings) from opening, to allow for the flare and cut the tube with a good pipe cutter.the little hand held cutters work great

Some say to heat the ends before flaring..I never have - your call.

Use your flaring tool and two socket wrenches, some 4200 and your good.


Edited by jvz on 10/17/14 - 1:59 PM
 
captn chumbucket
#23 Print Post
Posted on 10/21/14 - 5:12 AM
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What are people using for flairing tools? I can't bring myself to spend over $20 for a one-time use tool for a $5 part. What do you use to form the flair?
Thanx

 
gchuba
#24 Print Post
Posted on 10/21/14 - 5:40 AM
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I use the flaring tool. Touchy enough of a job for makeshift. I modified the tool for steeper angles. $20 well spent.

Garris

 
jvz
#25 Print Post
Posted on 10/21/14 - 12:50 PM
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I have both the 1'' & 1/14'' diameter.

I would be happy to loan them if you mail it back....drain tubes fail...so its not a one time use.

If you have longer tubes (like on a Montauk) just get a longer threaded bolt.

http://www.wholesalemarine.com/sea-do...AnST8P8HAQ


Edited by jvz on 10/21/14 - 12:52 PM
 
captn chumbucket
#26 Print Post
Posted on 10/23/14 - 6:17 AM
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That, Sir, is a damned nice gesture to a stranger. I would deny your request due to the lack of performance and confidence in our USPS and not wanting to replace it.
A big THANK YOU anyway!

 
Weatherly
#27 Print Post
Posted on 10/25/14 - 8:26 AM
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I am replacing all three through hull brass tubes on my 1971 BW16 hull with new brass. I do not use o-rings; the o-rings installed at the factory were the cheapest way to seal the brass to the hull and the first thing to deteriorate and then allow water infiltration. Today we have caulk to seal the brass fitting. I use boatLIFE Life-Calk (sic) white, 38ml small tube. The splashwell hole on my BW16 is 2 1/8 inches. You can buy a 1x3 inch brass or a 1x2 7/8 inches; either one will need to be cut before flaring.

You cannot use epoxy and then expect the gelcoat to adhere; it does not. You can however apply epoxy over gelcoat.

I filled my center splashwell through-hull hole and redrilled on the end, so as to have better drainage to the side of the outboard motor.

I removed perfectly good look brass drain tubes. As soon as I put the screwdriver onto the tube, the brass crumbled. And the interior hull core was damp.

The most important brass through hull tube to replace is the one located in the rigging tunnel on the BW16 hull. If the brass and/or oring is compromised, water will saturate the foam core.



 
gchuba
#28 Print Post
Posted on 10/25/14 - 8:39 AM
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Weatherly, when I installed a new drain tube between my fish locker and splash well (1979 22' Revenge) I used both the O-ring as well as Boat Life Caulk. I seated the O-ring with the caulk just before I tightened the tube and then spread the caulk around the completed fitting. What type of clearance between the flanged tube and the wall of the hull for the caulk without the O-ring? I kinda questioned the little O-ring by itself as a 100% seal.

Garris

 
RogueII
#29 Print Post
Posted on 10/27/14 - 1:13 PM
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hullinthewater wrote:
Rogue- check my post of a year ago.
http://whalercentral.com/forum/viewthread.php?thread_id=19419&pid=123895#post_123895

All you need is some 1"ID. f/glass tube [http://www.mgs4u.com/fiberglass-tube-rod.htm], WestSystem epoxy resin, a 1-1/2" hole saw and f/glass cloth,. masking tape.

I've owned 4-5 fiberglass boats over the last 28 years, and developing lamination, fill, surface patching skill should be a given for anyone w/glass boats. I'm surprised so many are somewhat averse to it. On the other hand, I've been surfing for almost 5 years now and know plenty of guys who take their surfboards to shopps to repair dings and gouges, etc, so go figure.
Seems as natural to owning a glass boat [or board] as being able to change a car tire, or oil and filter.
Whatever, I think the brass tube, rubber o rings, flaring tool and non-square angles of joined surfaces is repetative problem looking for an answer- the answer is glass it and forget about it. But there is no shortage of BW purists who will stand by it, and unless you plan on keeping it immersed in water, and don't mind re-doing it every 4-5 years, groove on.
I did all of mine, except for the locker drain, which doesn't sit immersed-normally, but I plan on changing it out next time I do another bottom paint [keep mine slipped in Pacific].


Thanks for this post. In reviewing the glass tubes, there is a 1" O.D. tube...any reason I cannot use that with the existing holes and epoxy it into place? Seems like less work than enlarging the current holes which will add more glassing/fairing work. A 1" drain plug should fit in there if the I.D. is 7/8" as they claim. Plus, I never plug my splashwell drains anyway.

I am no stranger to glass work I just would love to avoid having to fair the splashwell and/or outer transom much beyond where the tube meets the hull, if I can avoid it.

 
Weatherly
#30 Print Post
Posted on 10/29/14 - 1:48 PM
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I should have mentioned I used a Moeller drain tube flanging tool, 1 inch OD, part no. 020700-00, and a Pittsburgh mini tubing cutter, part no. 92878, sold by harbor freight. You do not want to over-tighten the flange tool, as this will cause the drain tube to split. Tighten firmly the flanging tool enough that 1-2 mm of caulk is visible between the tube and the hull.

I personally like the contrast between the clean brass tube and desert tan gelcoat or white gelcoat. Nothing wrong with the way hullinthewater did his set up, since he used paint, not gelcoat, on his hull.

I prefer not to use epoxy on my boat because I do not like the way epoxy causes the gelcoat to spit after a few seasons.

 
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