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articulating bunk trailer sources (on the west coast)
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| cys |
Posted on 07/24/14 - 1:28 PM
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Looking for any tips on sources for articulating bunk trailers along the lines of the following example, but available on the west coast, preferably California: http://www.loadrite.com/GalvanizedTra...Tandem.php. I have a particular poorly designed ramp that I'm interested in setting up to launch from. The trailer would be for a 1988 Montauk 17'. Exploring options right now. Refitting my existing trailer to do this wouldn't be cost effective, most likely, in the face of a prebuilt option. Thanks.
P.S.: Found another east coast example: http://www.tidewatertrailers.com/tide...ilers.html.
Edited by cys on 07/24/14 - 7:23 PM |
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| Phil T |
Posted on 07/25/14 - 6:04 AM
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I have frequented many truly terrible ramps and am not seeing why articulating bunks would help you.
Please describe in detail the features (or lack thereof) of the ramp you are considering using. Photos help.
What trailer do you now have, what are the problems with it that would require replacement? A new single axle trailer for your hull is $2500-$4000. Are you sure about cost effectiveness of rehabbing?
A keel roller with bunk trailer is what really made launching on bad ramps easier.
For steep ramps, adding rear guide posts help stop wagging the dog.
For shallow ramps, extending the tongue (adding hinged part or replacement) is a solution.
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| cys |
Posted on 07/25/14 - 10:30 AM
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I'm looking to launch at this ramp at zero tide:http://www.garlic.com/~triblet/ba_div...lobos.html.
If I can't find a pre-built articulated bunk trailer, then I plan to convert mine over.
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| Phil T |
Posted on 07/25/14 - 11:05 AM
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I am actually familiar with that ramp as it is used by Chuck Triblet who I have known for 10 years.
Have you talked with Chuck on his setup? See the section on his trailer setup on his personal website:
http://www.garlic.com/~triblet/whaler/et/whaler/
I think it is all about a long trailer tongue.
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| cys |
Posted on 07/25/14 - 11:23 AM
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I know Chuck, too, at least by email. I know other people in the area, some who launch under all conditions there. You can see that Chuck looks for a +2.5 tide to launch. I intend to launch at zero tide. What Chuck does isn't going to work for what I want to do. A long trailer tongue won't be enough on its own here as the ramp ends at the zero tide mark, and then there is a 6 foot drop.
Edited by cys on 07/25/14 - 11:24 AM |
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| Phil T |
Posted on 07/25/14 - 2:07 PM
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Please post some photos of your trailer and showing the boat sitting on it.
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| cys |
Posted on 07/25/14 - 2:11 PM
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This is what I have immediately: https://flic.kr/p/ouED2Z (and a few images that follow if you click beyond the one image).
Edited by cys on 07/25/14 - 2:18 PM |
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| Phil T |
Posted on 07/25/14 - 4:36 PM
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Here are a few thoughts.
I too had a LoadRite trailer like yours, they are great. The hull sits inside the wheels. Check my project album.
While this sounds a bit cowboy, I am a veteran in transporting cargo, people and supplies from the mainland to islands with no ferry service. I used my boat 9 months a year (ice and snow) and in nasty weather.
I would replace all the rollers and brackets. I would set the keel rollers down lower to drop the boat as close to the frame of the trailer as possible. New bunk brackets are also required. The existing are too long and need to be cut off. My Outrage 17 was really low to the ground, the engine was trimmed way out so not to scrape the ground.
I re-read Chuck's description of the ramp and tide conditions.
Here is my take to launch at that ramp at 0 tide will take a longer tongue. Since maneuvering at the top of the ramp is hard, I would start with the swing out tongue kit from Fulton. It adds 3' and is bolt on. Easy to do.
IF not enough, I would replace the tongue jack with a 2- wheel type to the bow frame of the trailer and add a second jack on the opposite side. This supports the front of the trailer allows it to be de-coupled from the truck and moved around.
I would add a second 2 speed hand winch to the front of trailer post or top of the tongue and use it to attach to the truck.
Back the trailer down the ramp as far as practical. Place tow vehicle in park, then hook up the second winch to truck, decouple the tongue and unwind the winch to dunk trailer. Once the boat is off, re-winch and reattach to the truck and go.
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| cys |
Posted on 07/25/14 - 5:10 PM
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Appreciate the info and comments.
Per my other recent thread relating to whether my current trailer was worth upgrading, my plan B is to replace all rollers/brackets. I plan to use Stoltz rollers with stainless pins.
Roger that about placing the rollers as close to the frame as possible, and replacing bunks/brackets.
The trailer (and boat) are new to me. The trailer *seems* to be a Calkins (now Carnai) based on the labeling.
I need to ask for more detail when you say dunk the trailer using the second winch:
I can see this approach working if it would allow the trailer wheels to partially or completely roll off the 6 ft precipice at the end ramp that represents the zero tide mark. If it doesn't, I see the problem remaining of bridging the 3 ft or so gap between the level of the water and the trailer -- the end of the ramp has a shallow angle and doesn't project the trailer into the water if the wheels remain on the ramp (ie no dunking). That's the beauty of the pivoting bunk approach -- it gets over the problem of not being able to dunk the trailer with the wheels on the ramp at zero tide by bridging the 3 ft gap between trailer and water level.
Edited by cys on 07/25/14 - 5:15 PM |
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| Phil T |
Posted on 07/25/14 - 5:56 PM
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I had to email Chuck off-line about this.
His response is:
... don't even think about launching or retrieving at Lobos on 0 tide. ...He watched a fellow rip the axle off a Pacific trailer after he dropped the axle over the edge of the ramp. The drop off has a lip and it caught the tires quite nicely.
Chuck confirmed his tongue is really long, like 80" and still not long enough for the lower part of the ramp.
If the drop-off is as bad as it seems, I don't see how you can get the boat to the water, even with a tilt trailer. With the wheels at the edge, if you tilted the trailer, The trailer will be too short and/or the angle necessary would be like \
I do see how a tilt trailer may help at a 2 or 1.75 tide.
Edited by Phil T on 07/25/14 - 5:58 PM |
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| cys |
Posted on 07/25/14 - 6:11 PM
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I want to tilt (articulate) the bunks, not the trailer, per the links to the two example trailers at the beginning of the thread. I agree that tilting the trailer won't work.
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| gchuba |
Posted on 07/25/14 - 8:04 PM
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I would personally get more info on the tilting bunk trailer. I have 3 equipment tilt bed trailers with the pivot behind the rear axle. If it were a bunk trailer all bunks tied together tilting on a subframe. The example you indicated has 4 individual bunks that tilt independent of each other. That is a whole lot of moving parts for launching and retrieving a boat. Especially considering that a bunk trailer is a "float on"/"float off". I have never seen one, let alone one in action. I would be worried if the boat is off center and the one of the moving bunks guides you amiss. Are then any hands on testimonials with this design?
Garris
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| cys |
Posted on 07/25/14 - 8:20 PM
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Although the examples shown don't have keel rollers, I would like have pivoting bunks *and* keel rollers.
The intent is not for it to be "float on/float off," but "winch on/winch off" (or dare I say it, "power on/power off").
The basic idea is to have a "keel-roller/bunk trailer" with equivalent function to an "articulating all roller trailer" (as the latter is not compatible with Montauks).
Edited by cys on 07/25/14 - 8:24 PM |
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| cys |
Posted on 07/25/14 - 8:29 PM
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gchuba wrote:
I have 3 equipment tilt bed trailers with the pivot behind the rear axle. If it were a bunk trailer all bunks tied together tilting on a subframe.
I can see this would be a very nice solution, but it's beyond the DIY I'd like to get involved in (and wayyy beyond what I could afford to have made custom).
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| Phil T |
Posted on 07/26/14 - 4:13 PM
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I went back and watched a few videos on tilt trailers and I now see how it is very possible to use on for the ramp he has.
While hokey, this video shows the mechanics of it. Note, the boat in the video is very light. A good 2 speed winch is recommended.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w-tTyZ...-tTyZr6wtA
There may be an economical way to modify your trailer frame and add the tilt feature.
Edited by Phil T on 07/26/14 - 4:27 PM |
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| gchuba |
Posted on 07/26/14 - 4:40 PM
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Phil, nice video. The bunk trailer Cys referred to had 4 indiviual bunks that moved and I quick searched and could not find a video. I had a tongue tilt trailer like the video once (small equipment, not boats). I brought it empty to pick up a small tractor and the center of gravity would not allow itself to lower one way, the other way came down with a heck of a bang. Thought it might snap. For boats, I would say you really need to engineer the pin placement correctly before home building.
Garris
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| Phil T |
Posted on 07/26/14 - 4:57 PM
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Garris -
That is not me in the video. (Yikes).
I had a Montauk with a tilt trailer and I went back and looked at my photos. I can see how he could modify the frame.
The question is....would a tilt trailer work for him at Pt. Lobos? If so, "We" can walk him through fixing his to be a keel roller with fixed bunks that tilts.
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| cys |
Posted on 07/26/14 - 5:14 PM
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I've looked at tilt trailer videos the last few days. I think a tilt trailer would help a lot, but I remain convinced that pivot bunks are the way to go for Lobos. I spent part of today sourcing the pivot hardware I need for the conversion online (manufactured by Venture) and plan to go ahead with it, barring something unforeseen. The outlay in dollars isn't that much.
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 07/26/14 - 6:00 PM
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Please let us all know the outcome.
Whether it works for you or you break an axle.
Let us know. This may help other in the future.
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| Phil T |
Posted on 07/27/14 - 8:19 AM
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I am not seeing the mechanics of how pivoting bunks (but not the trailer) will help.
Let us know how it works.
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