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New Whaler Owner, Couple Questions
dougt
#1 Print Post
Posted on 06/29/14 - 10:49 AM
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1996 Boston Whaler GLS Sport 13' Side Helm
1996 Johnson 40hp, 2 stroke

Hello,
Just recently bought this Boston Whaler and trying to decide on some basic rigging.
I've never owned a boat, so all new to me.
I did take the Florida State Boating Course and have all basic safety equipment.

I bought this boat to basically cruise the 400 miles of Canals in Cape Coral, Fl.
I may have to run down a river 2 miles to enter the Southern canals, but don't have any plans on getting out into the Gulf or big bays.

I will be storing it on the water at a boat dock and pulling it every 2 weeks to clean.

Questions:
For this size boat, would it be prudent to have 2 batteries?
I was thinking 1 for cranking and 1 dedicated to accessories?

Would there be any advantage for my use between fixed VF radio and handheld?
I was thinking from a theft standpoint, it may be fine to get a handheld and take it with me when I leave the boat. I can also monitor weather and boat communication from my condo.

Should I have a small trolling motor as a back-up in case I have engine trouble?
Can I just stern mount if needed, otherwise have it in the rear area dis-mounted?

Thanks a bunch. Been reading through previous threads to pick up other information.

Best regards,
Doug

 
gchuba
#2 Print Post
Posted on 06/29/14 - 12:18 PM
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I am a "2 battery type guy" but I would save the weight and go with one. There are posts and articles on wiring and if you want to isolate your electronics, a manual switch just for them would suffice. Click it off just when you are starting and then back on again. Starting will not affect navigation lights, bilges, etc... I have a "fixed" vhf (fixed is a misname, I remove mine from the mount and the other wires are set up to easily disconnect) as well as a hand held. Hand held's are inexpensive and having two devices is a nice safety feature aside from weather. Others are more knowledgeable about kickers.

Enjoy your boat and welcome.

Garris

 
wing15601
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Posted on 06/29/14 - 12:43 PM
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Don't think you need a trolling motor on that boat. I have a house across the river from you and I've boated in that area for the past 22 years. Join Boat/US or Seatow and get the towing package that you think best fits your needs. Getting towed is so expensive that one towing charge can pay for 20 years of membership. I've had boats from 13 to 38 feet in that area and currently have an older 13 which I keep in my garage. There is a rim canal in Cape Coral and you can stay near the shore of the river for most of the length of the city. When cruising the canals a street map is a good thing to have because you can get turned around and most maps show the canal system too. I use a hand held radio on my 13 and put a Lowrance Elite 4 on the boat which is fairly cheap. I've only used the boat ramp in Matlacha for the 13 because that pass is pretty well protected. If you haven't studied the nautical charts of the area, you can download free nautical charts. Google "noaa booklet 1427" (without the quotes) and download and study that chart. I have one I battery on my boat and it works fine for me. I only use it for starting and the Lowrance which draws very little power. I also don't have a bilge pump. You should go to some shallow water somewhere and pull the plug to see how much water comes in the boat. It may scare you at first but it's perfectly safe and will give you a lot of confidence when using the boat. You mentioned pulling the boat every couple of weeks to clean the hull. I've been there, done that. If you're going to keep a boat in the water in south Florida I would strongly advise some type of anti fouling paint. Stuff grows really, really, fast there and attaches itself with super glue.


I winter in Ft. Myers and summer in St. Joseph, Michigan. It’s now about 12 years since I’ve joined this group. I gave my 1972 whaler to my daughter and sold the 17’. Bought an O’Day 28 sailboat and sailed on Lake Michigan. Yesterday I bought a 2005 130 Sport.
 
dougt
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Posted on 06/29/14 - 1:06 PM
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Thanks for the input gentlemen. I think I'll throw a new battery in and call it good for now. I'll look into the Sea Tow membership and see what that cost. I would prefer not to clutter the boat with a trolling motor. Sounds like fixed or handheld will work for my needs. I'll ponder that choice for now. I hate to bottom paint the boat, so maybe a once a week pull is what I will try initially. If that doesn't work well, I'll go with the anti-fouling paint. I do have a marine GPS on board and will have a print out of the charts for that area.
Kind regards,
Doug


1996 Sport GLS 13' - 1996 Johnson 40hp, 2 Stroke
 
gary0319
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Posted on 06/29/14 - 1:07 PM
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wing15601 wrote:
Don't think you need a trolling motor on that boat. I have a house across the river from you and I've boated in that area for the past 22 years. Join Boat/US or Seatow and get the towing package that you think best fits your needs. Getting towed is so expensive that one towing charge can pay for 20 years of membership. I've had boats from 13 to 38 feet in that area and currently have an older 13 which I keep in my garage. There is a rim canal in Cape Coral and you can stay near the shore of the river for most of the length of the city. When cruising the canals a street map is a good thing to have because you can get turned around and most maps show the canal system too. I use a hand held radio on my 13 and put a Lowrance Elite 4 on the boat which is fairly cheap. I've only used the boat ramp in Matlacha for the 13 because that pass is pretty well protected. If you haven't studied the nautical charts of the area, you can download free nautical charts. Google "noaa booklet 1427" (without the quotes) and download and study that chart. I have one I battery on my boat and it works fine for me. I only use it for starting and the Lowrance which draws very little power. I also don't have a bilge pump. You should go to some shallow water somewhere and pull the plug to see how much water comes in the boat. It may scare you at first but it's perfectly safe and will give you a lot of confidence when using the boat. You mentioned pulling the boat every couple of weeks to clean the hull. I've been there, done that. If you're going to keep a boat in the water in south Florida I would strongly advise some type of anti fouling paint. Stuff grows really, really, fast there and attaches itself with super glue.


+1 on all of the above

I live in Sarasota and have a 15 Dauntless. 1 Battery, no VHS (cell phone works good), Tow Boat US, Lowrance Elite 5 Gold, I stay in the bay or within 2 miles of shore in the Gulf.....all is good, so far. Get the Navionics for your Smart Phone/Tablet. Great charts and tide information , all for under $10.

BTW, congrats on your "new" whaler.

Gary


1998 Dauntless 15 - 1998 Mercury 60
 
Joe Kriz
#6 Print Post
Posted on 06/29/14 - 1:15 PM
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I am not familiar with the 1996 40hp Johnson.
Can it be emergency rope started?
Do you have the emergency rope that came with it if it had one?

No need for an extra battery on a small boat if you can rope start the motor unless you also have an electric trolling motor.

However, on some of your trips, you might consider taking along a jumper battery system. Even has an air compressor, electrical outlet, etc. Even a worklight if it gets dark.
Not bad to have onboard for longer trips.
Here is one of many.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Wagan-900-A...r/14521520

 
gchuba
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Posted on 06/29/14 - 1:20 PM
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Tom Clark once mentioned a Whaler white color anti-fouling bottom paint. Maybe some one on the site recalls or knows how to get to the details.

Garris

 
Phil T
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Posted on 06/29/14 - 2:01 PM
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Garris -

It was Jeff. He had custom desert tan anti-fouling paint made up for his Outrage 22.

I recall at some point later it was not easy to find a supplier of tintable anti-fouling paint.

 
dougt
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Posted on 06/29/14 - 3:22 PM
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Thanks Gary,
I hope to get this thing in the water here soon so I can get comfortable with boat before taking it to Florida for the winter.
I am not sure if it has the rope start or not. It is not apparent on top of the flywheel, so I don't think it does.
I'll check the manual when I get a chance.
That little jumper box maybe on my wish list.

I thought I have seen anti fouling paint in white on youtube video by West Marine. So that should be an option if I decide to go that way. Not a big boat to paint, so not a big deal.

Thanks again Gentlemen.

Best regards,
Doug



1996 Sport GLS 13' - 1996 Johnson 40hp, 2 Stroke
 
gchuba
#10 Print Post
Posted on 06/29/14 - 5:47 PM
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I purchased "PETIT" Ultima SR 40 Ablative anti fouling paint . I got black but know they offer other colors. They are a manufacturer but were helpful in picking a product that best filled my needs. "www.pettitpaint.com". They may sell direct. I had my bottom painting done out of state (CA VOC regulations would have had me use crayons) and just had the boat service order exactly what was recommended. Best of luck and have some fun. Looks like you have some nice neighbors.

Garris

Phil, thanks for the good memory


Edited by gchuba on 06/29/14 - 5:50 PM
 
dougt
#11 Print Post
Posted on 06/29/14 - 8:31 PM
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Joe,
I did check the flywheel tonight.
It does have the notch for a pull start, but rope is no where to be found.
I'll have to add that to my list.

Doug


1996 Sport GLS 13' - 1996 Johnson 40hp, 2 Stroke
 
wing15601
#12 Print Post
Posted on 06/29/14 - 9:01 PM
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That chart booklet number is 11427, not 1427.


I winter in Ft. Myers and summer in St. Joseph, Michigan. It’s now about 12 years since I’ve joined this group. I gave my 1972 whaler to my daughter and sold the 17’. Bought an O’Day 28 sailboat and sailed on Lake Michigan. Yesterday I bought a 2005 130 Sport.
 
Joe Kriz
#13 Print Post
Posted on 06/29/14 - 9:19 PM
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dougt wrote:
Joe,
I did check the flywheel tonight.
It does have the notch for a pull start, but rope is no where to be found.
I'll have to add that to my list.
Doug

Excellent, now you know it can be emergency rope started.
If the starter goes out, just break out the rope.
You can order a rope from your local BRP dealer for your motor. I have done that in the past for a couple of my motors.
I always kept the rope in my tool box.

Always good to know you have a backup even if it requires your muscles.

 
gchuba
#14 Print Post
Posted on 06/29/14 - 11:16 PM
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If you fit the correct diameter rope for the fly wheel start, you can use a peg with a generic piece pf rope. I prefer to stay away from nylon because of stretch. Let the thickness of rope fall on top of itself. Braided is a nice material.

Garris

 
dougt
#15 Print Post
Posted on 06/30/14 - 7:02 AM
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I was reading where some people remove anything that is screwed into the fiberglass when they buy a used boat because some people don't seal the screws properly.
I have a speedo and depth sounder mounted below the waterline.
I was just going to dab some Dicor lap sealant I used on my RV roof?

Any problem with using Dicor? It seemed to do a good job on my RV roof and is removable.

I did get a little maintenance completed last night.
Steering cable and link arm cleaned and re-lubed
All zerk fittings lubed
Latches on motor cover lubed
Stencils applied
Replaced side marker lights and fixed bad ground on rear light.

I think I'll hit these screws with some sealant and be ready to start polishing her up.

Best regards,
Doug


1996 Sport GLS 13' - 1996 Johnson 40hp, 2 Stroke
 
wing15601
#16 Print Post
Posted on 06/30/14 - 7:38 AM
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Marine sealant is designed to be used in a submerged application. It's expensive but it works. Use whatever you want but 5200 and 4200 are the standards. I know they make marine silicone but I would never use it on a boat.


I winter in Ft. Myers and summer in St. Joseph, Michigan. It’s now about 12 years since I’ve joined this group. I gave my 1972 whaler to my daughter and sold the 17’. Bought an O’Day 28 sailboat and sailed on Lake Michigan. Yesterday I bought a 2005 130 Sport.
 
dougt
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Posted on 06/30/14 - 8:04 AM
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Thanks for the input.
I think I'll pick up some 5200 at Home Depot.
I am sure I'll have other needs.

Best regards,
Doug


1996 Sport GLS 13' - 1996 Johnson 40hp, 2 Stroke
 
tedious
#18 Print Post
Posted on 06/30/14 - 8:43 AM
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Doug, welcome aboard!

You've got some good answers, that I agree with. For inshore boating, no need to worry about a second battery, backup motor, or even a VHF radio if the cell phone coverage is good where you'll be. Just get a Sea Tow membership for about $125 a year and you'll be fine.

One thing to mention is that bottom painting does not just prevent marine growth; also prevents water intrusion into the hull. Gelcoat is not completely waterproof, and water will leach through over time, potentially causing blisters. When you paint the bottom, the first coating is something called a barrier coat, which is completely waterproof and keeps water from getting in, and then you topcoat with bottom paint.

Pulling the boat on a weekly schedule and leaving it out for a couple of days will probably prevent that, but I'm not completely sure. Maybe someone else has had that experience.

Tim

 
Phil T
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Posted on 06/30/14 - 8:51 AM
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Doug -

Note that 3M's 4200 or 5200 are adhesives. You are looking to for a marine sealant. There are many good ones.

3M 101
BoatLife Lifecaulk
West Marine Polyether Sealant
Starbrite Polysulfide Caulk.


Wing -

5200 and 4200 are the standards


This comment needs to be supported. I have never read or been advised that your statement is true. I have read owners being advised to NOT use an adhesive when a sealant is required. Please start a new thread on the topic.




 
dougt
#20 Print Post
Posted on 06/30/14 - 10:17 AM
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Thanks for the additional input.
I already looked into a Sea Tow membership and will pull the trigger once I get closer to being in Florida.

I may have to look into the cost of bottom painting. I really don't have the facilities to do it here at home.

I did read previously about the 5200 and how it's more of an adhesive.
I'll use a decent marine sealant for around the transom and anchor drain holes.

Best regards,
Doug


1996 Sport GLS 13' - 1996 Johnson 40hp, 2 Stroke
 
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