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2014 Etec motor mystery?
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| YoAdrian |
Posted on 05/20/14 - 10:22 AM
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So I finally got the 1963 Sakonnet in the water this past weekend and it is sweet!! However it was short lived. I picked up the boat at the Marina on Friday, where they went through everything with me as well as running the 75hp Etec on a hose at all rpm levels. They also adjusted idle to -200 so that I could find trolling speeds of 1-2mph easier. The day before the tech had lake tested the boat and said it ran great. I got the boat home and headed for the lake on Saturday, started it up and off I went. I went about 100-200 yds from the ramp and up to about 7mph when it skipped a few times and then bogged out. I checked air vent on the 6 gal Evinrude tank I bought at the marina and it was open, so I primed the bulb a few times and after turning it over 10 times or so it started up again. After going another 20 -30 seconds at no more than 10mph it quit again. I again primed the bulb, waited a few minutes and turned it over 10-15 times before it started. Again it quit after 20-30sec of running. I went home and changed the gas and hooked up to the muffs and it ran great for 5-10 minutes at all rpms until I turned it off. Thinking it was the gas I went back to the lake only to have it quit again like before. When I got it running again I had my brother prime the bulb on the fuel line every 10 seconds while under load. If he did this the boat wouldn't quit, and man is it fast! Did 37mph with 3 people and a dog in the boat. However as soon as he stopped priming the bulb it would quit seconds later...? I got home and hooked to the hose again and again it ran like a top. Any thoughts? It seems like the engine isn't getting fuel while under load? Could the first tank have been bad gas and now there's water in the motor? It's over 2 hours back to marina so if there is an easy fix I would like to do it myself, if not I will bring it back...Thanks for the help, I will post pics soon, the boat looks sweet!
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| Derwd24 |
Posted on 05/20/14 - 10:45 AM
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If you're losing prime on the bulb, it's not a gas quality issue. Did the dealer water test before giving the boat back to you? If so, and you're running a different tank and hose, that could pinpoint the issue.
First thing to check is for an air leak in the fuel line. If you can prime the bulb hard and don't see any fuel leaking in the lines from the bulb to the engine, including checking the lines under the cowling, the culprit lies before the bulb. Check the connectors at the tank and the engine (they have o-rings that you can visually inspect) as well as all the Oetiker clamp connections along the fuel line. If you can, also inspect the pick up tube that runs down into the tank.
Is it a genuine BRP fuel line and bulb as the aftermarkets are known for poor quality?
There's a possibility it could also be the fuel lift pump, but these engines are run at all speeds and loads at the factory before shipping, so focus on the fuel lines and tank now.
Should also mention that these engines are so efficient at idle, running on the muffs isn't really a test of the issue.
Edited by Derwd24 on 05/20/14 - 11:06 AM
Dave - 1983 Outrage 22 |
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| alan heckmamleper |
Posted on 05/20/14 - 11:17 AM
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Does the gas tank you are using require a Fuel Demand Valve or FDV,or a new style fuel connector with a sealing mechanism that prevents pressurized fuel from entering the engine and causing fuel system overflow or spillage.My Tohatsu 6 hp. Kicker requires a primer bulb hose with a FDV and I had replaced the hose fitting to match the one on my main gas tank and ran into the same problems you are talking about,I put the FVD fitting back on and used a remote tank that came with the motor and all is well Tohatsu motor is a 2014. That's progress!
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| Phil T |
Posted on 05/20/14 - 1:24 PM
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You mention a new tank but what about the primer bulb, hose and connectors?
If not new, I would replace the fuel hose, primer bulb and connectors. Purchase an OEM brand bulb, not aftermarket. Too many bad stories.
For fuel hose, use the alcohol resistant type. Cut the hose to the length you want and use stainless clamps for the connections and the bulb.
You can order all of this online.
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| Derwd24 |
Posted on 05/20/14 - 1:30 PM
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alan heckmamleper wrote:
Does the gas tank you are using require a Fuel Demand Valve or FDV,or a new style fuel connector with a sealing mechanism that prevents pressurized fuel from entering the engine and causing fuel system overflow or spillage.My Tohatsu 6 hp. Kicker requires a primer bulb hose with a FDV and I had replaced the hose fitting to match the one on my main gas tank and ran into the same problems you are talking about,I put the FVD fitting back on and used a remote tank that came with the motor and all is well Tohatsu motor is a 2014. That's progress!
Alan, when that happened to you, was your primer bulb getting sucked flat or just losing prime?
Dave - 1983 Outrage 22 |
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| alan heckmamleper |
Posted on 05/20/14 - 2:22 PM
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My primer bulb just lost prime.
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| alan heckmamleper |
Posted on 05/20/14 - 2:27 PM
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Yes the hose bulb and fittings were all new.
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| VA Whaler |
Posted on 05/20/14 - 7:21 PM
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If this engine were about 20 years newer I'd suspect the fuel pump to manifold gasket or the fuel pump itself. No idea how these fuel systems work nowadays but if you do not suspect a problem with the fuel lines and bulb, I'd look closely at the pump but this engine is brand new I'd have the service manager test drive it to figure it out. 
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| saumon |
Posted on 05/20/14 - 9:02 PM
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Derwd24 wrote:
If you're losing prime on the bulb, it's not a gas quality issue. Did the dealer water test before giving the boat back to you? If so, and you're running a different tank and hose, that could pinpoint the issue.
X2
The absolute best and easiest test to rule out a connector/hose/primer bulb/vent problem is to temporarly use a small portable tank with fresh gas. That will tell you on which side the problem is (engine or fuel lines/tank). Then you'll start form there. It's 10 times better than throwing parts randomly.
Edited by saumon on 05/20/14 - 9:03 PM
1991 Outrage 17' I - 2005 E-Tec 90hp |
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| gchuba |
Posted on 05/20/14 - 10:10 PM
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I have been following this post and felt most troubleshooting ideas covered. However, a while ago, a friend who takes care of Water District boats, told me of a similar issue where under load the motor starved for fuel. The fuel line was collapsing on itself. I just replaced all my fuel hoses and when shopping for hose at WestMarine they had a sunlight resistant hose (grey if I remember) that collapsed easily to the touch. I went with the black fuel hose because it felt "thicker". Good luck. I am with VA Whaler that at least contacting the Service Manager is in order and ask what they did and what you are not doing. Everything from type of hoses to how they tested. I am a little confused how a Marina would send out a boat and then have you set up the fuel system.
Worst case was another friend who had his boat with his Etec serviced and was given bill of health. Operating issues from the get go. Found out the servicing was done but the test run imaginary. A wire plug connection was neglected. You may want to jiggle wires and check connections.
Garris
Years ago an old Dodge van I had ran horrible. Brought it to an old time mechanic an told him to rebuild the carburetor. He cleaned the points for free (ran great) and told me he should have kitted the carburetor for $400 to teach me a lesson
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| Phil T |
Posted on 05/21/14 - 5:37 AM
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I checked air vent on the 6 gal Evinrude tank I bought at the marina and it was open
Is this tank have the new EPA and CARB compliant cap or a old style one?
To eliminate the vent as a problem, run the boat with the gas cap loosened.
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| YoAdrian |
Posted on 05/23/14 - 7:25 PM
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I bought the new tank the day I picked up the boat. They lake tested before hand with their own tank and I said I would purchase my own to save some money. I ended up buying the Evinrude tank at the Marina anyways but it was never tested on the boat. The salesman hooked up the quick disconnect and then took the plastic fuel line connector out of the tank and put in a brass one. I took everything home and filled it with gas the following day and drove to the lake. So something happened in that period after they tested it with their own tank that is causing the problem. Fuel lines are BRP. The tank slid around a little on the deck while in transport to the lake while attached to the fuel line. How rugged are the quick disconnect valves? Could it have been cracked and their is a leak?
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| gchuba |
Posted on 05/23/14 - 7:32 PM
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Those quick disconnect lines are fickle. One attached to my kicker motor snapped, another time, one was partially disconnected (but looked solid) and introduced air into my line. Changed filter in tough seas just to find out that jiggling/securing quick disconnect would have solved issue. Cinch down the tank and check connections.
Garris
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| YoAdrian |
Posted on 05/25/14 - 5:06 PM
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Ended up bringing the boat back to the marina and found there was water in the fuel. Wasn't much but after bleeding the fuel out of the motor and bringing it to the lake it ran like a top. Cumberland farms fuel for those that might be wondering. My girlfriend and I took it for a cruise on Lake Champlain afterwards and despite the fact that it was a bit choppy the we hit 42mph. The boat really hauls. Thanks for the help guys!
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| Geo |
Posted on 05/26/14 - 4:21 PM
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Excellent Advice in General.
X2
The absolute best and easiest test to rule out a connector/hose/primer bulb/vent problem is to temporarly use a small portable tank with fresh gas. That will tell you on which side the problem is (engine or fuel lines/tank). Then you'll start form there. It's 10 times better than throwing parts randomly.
Edited by Geo on 05/26/14 - 4:26 PM |
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