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Continetal Trailer - Ribside - Setup help
sraab928	#1  Posted on 05/03/14 - 8:16 AM
Member Project Albums Posts: 1282 Comments: 13 Joined: 12/27/05	Good Morning All, Hoping Larry will chime in on this one. I had a new Continental Trailer manufactured for my 1971 21 Ribside. I ordered it as follows (per the recommendation of Jim D who gave me Larry's setup info he had); Trailer - CTV944-72B 3x4 Tongue 2x4x5' bunks - although they delivered full size bunks - dealer cut down to 7 foot as 5 didn't seem feasible based on crossmember spacing 14" tires and wheels 2 axle disc brakes Straight crossmembers All 12" Stoltz rolllers with Stainless Steel Shafts All SS hardware. Here is a picture of my new trailer. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v47...ecfcaa.jpg I swapped trailers this morning - Had to do it on land as my existing trailer had a broken rear crossmember and was not road worthy. The problem I am having is this - The keel rollers are all the way down - The bunks are all the way up but there is a gap above the bunks. I could move them in towards the center more but the advise is to keep them out for balance. Here are the pictures. Thoughts? Rollers - excuse the dirt - she is a project http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v47...e1af14.jpg Port Bunk http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v47...ab038c.jpg Starboard Bunk http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v47...675127.jpg Scott 1974 21' Revenge w Mercury 200 ProXS V8
Weatherly	#2  Posted on 05/03/14 - 8:33 AM
Member Posts: 752 Comments: 4 Joined: 12/31/06	I suggest you swap out the existing bunk brackets and install longer ones, so that you can raise the bunks sufficient to "balance" the hull. Keel supports (rollers) look good.
kamie	#3  Posted on 05/03/14 - 8:34 AM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 2975 Comments: 3 Joined: 11/04/05	Your choices include, longer/large bunk brackets? They make 8, 10, 12 and 24 inch lengths. Not sure how large the ones you have are but it might require you go to the next size up. another option is to drill the cross member and bolt through the cross member, rather than above and below. Of course the last option is to move them closer to the keel so they contact the hull, while you decide on what of the other options you may want to exercise. http://www.easternmarine.com/24-galva...cket-44046 Edited by kamie on 05/03/14 - 8:36 AM
gchuba	#4  Posted on 05/03/14 - 8:49 AM
Member Posts: 1675 Comments: 0 Joined: 03/31/13	Longer brackets would be the ticket. However, do you have hardware access to the underside of the bunks and possibly install some shims? Looks like you are just missing and if you have enough thread to put in a spacer, I do not think it would compromise structural integrity. I would guess they used stainless carriage bolts through the wood. gchuba
Phil T	#5  Posted on 05/03/14 - 11:56 AM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 6986 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	I would cut shims and insert between the bunk and the bracket.
sraab928	#6  Posted on 05/03/14 - 12:26 PM
Member Project Albums Posts: 1282 Comments: 13 Joined: 12/27/05	I need about a half inch per side - these are good suggestions. I am just surprised it doesn't work as ordered. Hopefully Larry will spot this and chime in - I have to assume I am doing something wrong. Scott 1974 21' Revenge w Mercury 200 ProXS V8
kamie	#7  Posted on 05/03/14 - 7:30 PM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 2975 Comments: 3 Joined: 11/04/05	It's hard to tell but looking at Larry's setup the bunk supports seem longer than the ones you have. They sit up higher. What size are the bunk brackets on your trailer?
Joe Kriz	#8  Posted on 05/03/14 - 7:53 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11429 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	Page 96 of the Continental Trailer parts catalog show 8", 10", and 12' Bunk Brackets. http://www.continentaltrailers.com/Wa..._parts.pdf What length are yours? Maybe they will exchange the ones you have for longer ones?
sraab928	#9  Posted on 05/04/14 - 3:57 AM
Member Project Albums Posts: 1282 Comments: 13 Joined: 12/27/05	I will measure them today - I am going to contact my dealer on Monday and see if they can swap them out - Scott 1974 21' Revenge w Mercury 200 ProXS V8
sraab928	#10  Posted on 05/04/14 - 7:38 AM
Member Project Albums Posts: 1282 Comments: 13 Joined: 12/27/05	FYI. Brackets are 10". I tried moving the bunks all the way out. Now is see why I need 5' long bunks. The 7' hit an area of the hull that has a step. Even with shorter bunks (5') it still will not be hitting the bottom to my satisfaction. Hoping the dealer can remedy. Edited by sraab928 on 05/04/14 - 7:50 AM Scott 1974 21' Revenge w Mercury 200 ProXS V8
sraab928	#11  Posted on 05/05/14 - 11:24 AM
Member Project Albums Posts: 1282 Comments: 13 Joined: 12/27/05	Met with the dealer today - they are going to shorten the bunks, put larger brackets on and fit to boat no charge to me - They are an awesome place to deal with - They have some of the best customer service around. Boathouse Discount Marine in Melbourne Fl. Scott 1974 21' Revenge w Mercury 200 ProXS V8
Finnegan	#12  Posted on 05/05/14 - 1:26 PM
Member Posts: 1925 Comments: 16 Joined: 05/02/08	Scott - Good work - Your trailer is identical to mine, and set up properly fits these old 21 Ribside/Smoothside hulls like it was specifically designed for the boat. For reference, here is photo fo mine showing you pretty much everything that needs to be done: http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lgolt...7742799107 Be sure you do the following set up work: 1. Bunks - As you can see, the 2 x 4 x 5" bunks are all that you need, supported on the last two crossmembers. As you have now determined, the factory suppied suppors are too short, and you need the 12" long ones. You can see that in the photo. Installed, they will be almost level on top, becasue you want them to rest in the highest point of the hull where there is a concave hull shape. Your dealer can use the same approximate location shown in the photo. Keep all weight on the keel when adjusting, and simply tap the supports up against the hull so it doens't rock. 2. Remove the factory installed GALVANIZED lag screws holding the support piece to the underside of the bunks, and replace with 3/8" x 2" STAINLESS lags. This is mandatory, since in salt the moisture holding bunk board will quickly rust out even the galvanized lags. Use a few washers under the lag head if necessary so the lag tip does not penetrate the bunk board and carpet. 3. Install pairs of rollers on all crossmebers. On the forward support, an 8" roller must be used for the front roller. If you look at the frame detail carefully, you will see whay this has to be done, with two loose brackets rather than a single pan bracket. I HIGHLY recommend you use 4 SS bolts for each st of brackets, with the top bolts resting ON TOP OF the crossmember and the brackets slid all the way down on to the bolts. This gives you absolute positive support which cannot drop under load or vibration. See this sefl explatatory photo: http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lgolt...3172274907 4. Finally, I recommend the vertical 60" tall guide ons by CE Smith. Install them perfectly vertical, tight against the rubrail, and be sure to use the horizontal 2" PVC extra tube to stabilize the horizontal legs in the vertical position. This simple trick works very well, and keeps the guide-ons strong and stable for years. http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lgolt...5828637058 5. For stern connection to the trailer, I use a belly strap threaded under the two stern cleats, hooked to 3/8" eyebolts which connect the tail light brackets. Just be careful youi don't crack it down too tight as you can put stress cracks in the top shell. http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lgolt...8835107585 I would print up these photos for your dealer when you are having the worik done, and BE THERE while he does it. Even the dealer can learn something from this experience! Good luck. You will be very happy with the rig when set up properly. The boat simply rolls right off the trailer, so never unhook the winch strap until you are backed in. I have to take the bow line and wrap it around a dock cleat, or the winch stand so I can get the winch hook off when launching. Incidentally, the Whaler bow eye being used in these boats doesn't fit most of the standard winch strap hooks. You may have to look around for one that fits without jamming in the eye.
sraab928	#13  Posted on 05/06/14 - 4:28 AM
Member Project Albums Posts: 1282 Comments: 13 Joined: 12/27/05	Thank you for the detailed and well thought out response Tom! Im glad you chimed in before my appointment tomorrow morning. I will post the results when I get back. Thanks again! Scott Scott 1974 21' Revenge w Mercury 200 ProXS V8
tom blinstrub	#14  Posted on 05/06/14 - 5:28 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 369 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/14/09	Nice trailer. What did it cost?
sraab928	#15  Posted on 05/06/14 - 6:55 AM
Member Project Albums Posts: 1282 Comments: 13 Joined: 12/27/05	Price was $3050 as specified. Scott 1974 21' Revenge w Mercury 200 ProXS V8