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How do you install rub rail receiver
gchuba
#1 Print Post
Posted on 04/23/14 - 3:58 PM
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I am wrapping up oiling my teak gunnels. Before oiling I removed the entire rub rail assembly. I have the new receiver as well as a new rub rail. The old rub rail receiver was installed with rivets. I filled all the holes and was wondering if I should use screws or rivets installing the new piece. I prefer the use of screws but am worried that over time they might back off. I have never been a fan of rivets. Thanks in advance.

gchuba

 
wing15601
#2 Print Post
Posted on 04/23/14 - 6:14 PM
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If you drill the correct sized hole for the screw you're using it won't back out. Use a bedding compound / marine caulk, not silicone, to seal the screws in the hole. This will prevent water intrusion and crevice corosion to the screw. Here's a suggestion for screw size to drill bit size:
#4 use 3/32"
#6 use 1/8"
#8 use 9/64"
#10 use 11/64" (or 5/32" in a pinch)
#12 use 3/16"


Edited by wing15601 on 04/23/14 - 6:19 PM
I winter in Ft. Myers and summer in St. Joseph, Michigan. It’s now about 12 years since I’ve joined this group. I gave my 1972 whaler to my daughter and sold the 17’. Bought an O’Day 28 sailboat and sailed on Lake Michigan. Yesterday I bought a 2005 130 Sport.
 
gchuba
#3 Print Post
Posted on 04/23/14 - 6:24 PM
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Wing,
I ended up with a pre-drilled receiver with holes 6" o/c. Any recommendation for screw size. I would prefer the smallest size possible if I need to upgrade in future. Thanks for info.
Gchuba

 
blacksmithdog
#4 Print Post
Posted on 04/24/14 - 4:52 AM
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My rubrail kit from BW came with #10 screws.

 
wing15601
#5 Print Post
Posted on 04/24/14 - 10:29 AM
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I would bet the holes are the correct size for rivets. Your rub rail didn't come with either screws or rivets? You could use those holes or drill your own but anyway like blacksmith dog said, he used #10 screws and if you ever have to do it again you don't have to use the same holes, just epoxy up the old ones and drill some new ones.


I winter in Ft. Myers and summer in St. Joseph, Michigan. It’s now about 12 years since I’ve joined this group. I gave my 1972 whaler to my daughter and sold the 17’. Bought an O’Day 28 sailboat and sailed on Lake Michigan. Yesterday I bought a 2005 130 Sport.
 
Phil T
#6 Print Post
Posted on 04/24/14 - 12:21 PM
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Keep in mind, you want to install the rub rail on a hot day. Soak it in hot water to help get the bend out.

Having a helper makes the job a lot easier.

 
blacksmithdog
#7 Print Post
Posted on 04/24/14 - 12:43 PM
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Phil T wrote:
Keep in mind, you want to install the rub rail on a hot day. Soak it in hot water to help get the bend out.

Having a helper makes the job a lot easier.


Cautious use of a heat gun on the receiver doesn't hurt either.

 
chipmiller2000
#8 Print Post
Posted on 04/24/14 - 4:07 PM
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One of the members here described it correctly as "coiled concrete."


Chip Miller,
1985 Outrage 18'
 
gchuba
#9 Print Post
Posted on 04/25/14 - 7:39 AM
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Thanks all for the installation instructions and tips.
gchuba

 
rfuerst911sc
#10 Print Post
Posted on 04/25/14 - 12:37 PM
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An extra set of hands, some wood working clamps you will be good to go. When I did the rail on my 13 ' it came with screws for the end and rivets for the rest. I started at one end, clamped in place while helper held the rail. Drilled a hole, injected some Polyseamseal adhesive caulk and did the rivet. Kept moving 6 " at a time and it came out great. Nice and tight and solid as a rock. Then just inserted the rubber insert trimmed the ends and voila you're done !

 
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