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1990s 16 SL Questions From First Time Buyer
kristin
#1 Print Post
Posted on 01/19/14 - 7:18 PM
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Hey there folks, this is my first post here on Whaler Central. I have been shopping for my first boat for about a year (off and on, anyway). I live in Florida, and while kayaking on a recent Sunday afternoon I came across a Boston Whaler 16 SL. The boat didn't have a 'for sale' sign, but long story short, its owner is willing to sell it to me for $4K. This price doesn't include a trailer.

I like to fish and I would be using this boat to do some fishing in the Intracoastal, tootling in the canals, as well as perhaps taking it out in the open water on a calm day. I am going to go tomorrow to take a look close-up. Like I said, this is my first boat, so I am here wondering if I could get some advice from those who have lived and learned (that'd be y'all ;)

The boat has a bimini top. I don't know whether it has trim tabs to reduce porpoising that I read about, but I will ask. In talking to the owner, I learned that its fuel tank has been replaced. I've been reading a lot about the 16SL on Whaler Central and I understand this is a common(ish) repair. The boat has been sitting for 2 years, save for a few trips. Owner also told me the tank needs to be cleaned out, and the fuel line replaced. The price includes these repairs -- owner said the price will come down if I would like to make these repairs myself (or with the help of a friend).

The boat has a 90HP motor, but I cannot remember the make, nor do I know what year this particular 16 SL was made. I will find all this info out tomorrow. In my quick kayak trip, the boat looked like it was well kept despite having not been run. Its owner cleaned it up every so often, but it has not been given the right amount of attention for the last two years (and it's been sitting in the water). The motor started right up on an external gas tank, but the built-in tank will need to be cleaned before I give it a try. I know it's hard to gauge whether this is a good price without seeing more pictures, but the boat looked beautiful from the water. However, I know looks can be deceiving.

This site is a great reference! I have learned a lot from reading here this past week. I have grown up around boats all my life, and I am really keen on having my very own. I am wondering what I should look for when I go to take a look -- particularly with the 16 SL model, for those who have handled one in the past -- and what kinds of immediate repairs/maintenance I should anticipate. For the record, plenty of folks have warned me that boat stands for Break Out Another Thousand :) haha. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thank you!


Edited by Joe Kriz on 11/10/20 - 5:43 PM
 
thegage
#2 Print Post
Posted on 01/20/14 - 9:18 AM
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Well, one of the key things you can't check out since it's in the water--the bottom. That said, I bought mine without being able to haul it out of the water and took the owner at his word that the bottom was fine. Fortunately it was.

Immediate attention would be to all the through-hulls (ski locker, two aft wells, scuppers) to see if they need re-sealing/replacement. A couple of mine were not seated and there was some water in the foam around them, but nothing serious. Unfortunately to do this you'll need to haul it.

Check electronics, lights, etc., plus any funky wiring. The back of the electrical panel is open and will have some amount of corrosion after all those years around salt water.

I would guess the engine is an OMC 90, Johnson or Evinrude, as this was the common one installed on the 16SL back in the day. They can go for years. Can you do a compression test at the next visit? Numbers within 5-10% across the cylinders are more important than the level. Compression can run anywhere from 100 to maybe 115 (maybe someone can offer more info). Mine were all around 105.

Run the boat, rather than just starting the engine. My engine ran OK, but it didn't start very well and idle was a bit lumpy. Turns out the carbs needed to be rebuilt, but most importantly the plastic float bowls needed to be replaced because ethanol had warped them.

Is the VRO system still hooked up? If it's got the original pump that might need to be replaced also (ethanol again).

John K.


John Kittredge
1991 16 SL - 2013 E-TEC 90
 
huckelberry145
#3 Print Post
Posted on 01/20/14 - 11:24 AM
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Like John said "run it". That can tell you a lot about entire setup, especially the engine. Does it porpoise? Does it seem to labour at full throttle. What I mean is does the boat come to a good speed at w.o.t. Download a GPS application to your phone if you can and note the wide open throttle speed and engine rpms. With some research you can find out what is right. This boat was most likely rigged by someone at the factory or dealership and I'm sure it performed properly when it was sold so problems while driving it will be a red flag. Also while it is sitting in the water, take note of the static trim, how it rests in the water and compare that to some of the members personal page photos. Personally, I would want the boat taken out of the water. Why? Because boats need maintenance. The drain tubes which are probably PVC will need to be resealed anyway. While the boat is out of the water, let the hull dry of its ambient water, then check to see if water continues to drip from around the drains. If the boat has been sitting in the water with bad drains for awhile, the drip should pretty noticeable. This might be one of the biggest things to look for in a whaler is a waterlogged hull so really take a good look at the drain tube areas. I'm hoping everything works out and it is and will be a nice boat for you to enjoy but you still need to protect yourself in a purchase like this. There might be someone wrong with the boat that even the seller knows nothing about.


Edited by huckelberry145 on 01/20/14 - 11:29 AM
 
kristin
#4 Print Post
Posted on 01/28/14 - 10:01 AM
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Hey all, thank you both for your responses. I am the proud new owner of a 1992 Boston Whaler 16SL!

Took it for a spin this past weekend. The impeller/water pump needs replacing as the motor wasn't "pissing" like it should but in all it is a very clean engine. Started right up with a new battery. I have it out of the water now, and the hull looks good -- it was painted and there are just a few barnacles that I'm going to pressure clean away. No blistering that I can see. Some tannin stains at the water line (we are brackish here) but those are coming off easy with a very fine sand paper and elbow grease. Once I get the hull clean I will likely do some touch-ups on the paint but overall it looks really good.

Turns out the boat was repowered in 1999 with a Yamaha 90hp. It has a hydrofoil. When we got it up to plane and it didn't bounce so hopefully porpoising won't be an issue. Gas tank replaced in 2007 with a 22-gallon .125 gauge aluminum tank.

I do have a question about water in the aft well on the port side -- there's a drain hole from the gas tank to the well -- because the tank is 22 gallons and not 24 like the manufacturer's tank, will that pose a problem with draining? Should there be any water around the gas tank? As you can tell I'm fairly new to this haha. I can include close-up photos if you'd like.

Also, there is one small crack where the starboard console meets the end of the gas tank cover. The top is solid but there is deterioration underneath. Photos below. As the top is solid, is there a way to get this repaired without replacing the entire panel? I will dry it out and fill the hole on top at the very least.

The boat will be sitting out of the water at least through the weekend -- I will keep an eye out for the drip from the drains -- hopefully nothing to write home about!

There are some hairline cracks in the gel coat, particularly on the port side (got the most sun there). I'm not going to go crazy, but if you all have some advice on how to seal them it would be welcome. Other folks have told me to just give it a good wax and accept that it won't be perfect ;)

And finally... some photos...

In the water...
http://i1313.photobucket.com/albums/t...57390c.jpg

Drying out...
http://i1313.photobucket.com/albums/t...933e52.jpg

The crack below the starboard console that I was talking about...
http://i1313.photobucket.com/albums/t...4a02ca.jpg

The fiberglass below the crack -- will definitely need some repair...
http://i1313.photobucket.com/albums/t...a18f56.jpg

Gas tank (pre-cleaning)
http://i1313.photobucket.com/albums/t...f228d3.jpg

Thanks again all!


Edited by kristin on 01/28/14 - 10:02 AM
 
thegage
#5 Print Post
Posted on 01/29/14 - 6:46 AM
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Nice looking boat, and glad to see another one going to a caring home.

If the top of the tank is not up to the lip of the rear port drain you will get standing water and that will be a problem, largely from the moisture that will build up on the underside of the tank cover and eventually rot it out. I don't have a quick solution.

The crack at the front of the cover is not critical, assuming you fill it. Since you have the cover off you should let it dry out, then use something such as CPES (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1268) before filling the holes. I used CPES on the entire underside of my cover where wood was exposed, particularly at the edges of the plywood laminate.

John K.


John Kittredge
1991 16 SL - 2013 E-TEC 90
 
jvz
#6 Print Post
Posted on 01/29/14 - 7:42 AM
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Wow! You scored....a few simple cosmetic things to address,new fuel filter/separator....check all lines..check all electrical & do the basics on the motor and your going to have a fun summer - Congrats!

 
kristin
#7 Print Post
Posted on 01/29/14 - 2:56 PM
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Thanks! I'm very excited. I cannot wait to get it dialed in. I found a great price for soda blasting the hull. I am thinking that I will go that route after I pressure clean it this weekend. I do not see any blisters in the fiberglass, just a lot of crap haha. I have found at least 3 coats of paint on the hull. Some calcium circles from barnacles of years passed too. Here are some more photos re: the gas tank. Not sure what to do to get it staying dry (or drier, at least)...

Gas tank. Some water...
http://i1313.photobucket.com/albums/t...2b7a1a.jpg

Drain from gas to the port side aft well. I guess the gas tank should be higher as thegage recommends so as to force the water out that hole. It's a 22-gal tank, not 24 like the manufacturer's model, not sure if that's the reason why there's so much water sitting. I bilged it out, but that will be tough if I have to remove the floor every time. You'll see they pumped a lot of StuffIt around the tank.
http://i1313.photobucket.com/albums/t...638da1.jpg

Drain in port side aft well
http://i1313.photobucket.com/albums/t...59d687.jpg

Hull....
http://i1313.photobucket.com/albums/t...5ddda.jpeg

Lots of cleaning to do :)

 
gchuba
#8 Print Post
Posted on 01/29/14 - 4:20 PM
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Since you are this far exposing the fuel tank, pop it out and really check the interior. You may want to add an access plate or two. I had a chronic fuel problem with sand in my tank and jumped through the hoops to clean it in place (bear of a job to remove the deck cover). The operation of your boat starts with clean fuel.
gchuba

 
Alan Gracewski
#9 Print Post
Posted on 01/29/14 - 4:25 PM
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Kristin, congratulations on the 16 SL. I have admired them as the perfect small runabout that comes with Whaler flotation safety.

Regarding your fuel tank and draining the top of it. I have a 22' Revenge (1990) which had a similar issue when I pulled off the tank cover. While the configuration of the 16 is different than the 22, it is desirable that any water, which does get to the tank top, drains off. Otherwise you have a stagnant pool of water sitting on top of the tank. Fresh water probably won't do harm, but salt water would start eating into the aluminum tank top (and sides if the foam does not have a good seal/is adhered to the tank sides). Provided the tank is well foamed in place (or "stuffed" in your case), water will run off the tank and escape into a drain or the rigging tunnel you have on the starboard side.

You might be able to do what I did on my 22 to promote better drainage. Here is my photobucket link which has my pictures and explanation captions: http://s1282.photobucket.com/user/agr...amp;page=1 I hope the link works for you...let me know if it does not and I will troubleshoot.

The depth of your starboard rigging tunnel is not as deep as mine, but drilling a hole (one inch diameter or greater) even with the top of the aft stbd corner into the rigging tunnel could work. If you do so, you must seal the foam/fiberglass hole to prevent water intrusion into the foam of the hull. I used 3M 5200 liberally. My tank top now stays dry and any water does run off into the port or stbd tunnels. Also, while not using the boat, if you have inspection covers above the tank, you can pull these off to permit the area to ventilate and dry out.

Good Luck!

Al

 
Alan Gracewski
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Posted on 01/29/14 - 4:39 PM
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Kristin, upon reviewing your photos again, it is very hard to see how deep the rigging tunnel is...or whether it has a sump to catch and allow water to drain via a thru hull drain plug or installed bilge pump?? If the designed drainage path is actually into the port side well, then a new drain hole could be drilled on that side even with the existing tank top.

Or GChuba's suggestion about removing the tank, inspecting/renewing it, and raising it to the proper level would restore the limited drainage originally designed in.

Al

 
thegage
#11 Print Post
Posted on 01/29/14 - 4:42 PM
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The 16SL has a bizarre drainage system, where it is supposed to run off the deck, onto the top of the tank, then into the stern port well through that small tube. (If that well fills up, say when at mooring after a lot of rain, excess water then flows out the scuppers.) This means there's always some moisture on the tank top, but if the drain is working properly not too much (when I bought my 16SL the tank cavity was full of dead leaves, and the drain was pretty much plugged). As Al notes, when you're not using the boat it's a good idea to pull the inspection plates to get some air flow. I sometimes use a small fan to help.

In any case, as much as I hate to drill unnecessary holes, I think your best option is to drill a new drain hole below the old one, and epoxy in a length of pvc, just like the factory did. Make sure it's at the level of the tank top and then you'll have as good drainage as you're going to get.

John


John Kittredge
1991 16 SL - 2013 E-TEC 90
 
thegage
#12 Print Post
Posted on 01/29/14 - 4:45 PM
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Alan Gracewski wrote:
Kristin, upon reviewing your photos again, it is very hard to see how deep the rigging tunnel is...or whether it has a sump to catch and allow water to drain via a thru hull drain plug or installed bilge pump?? If the designed drainage path is actually into the port side well, then a new drain hole could be drilled on that side even with the existing tank top.

Or GChuba's suggestion about removing the tank, inspecting/renewing it, and raising it to the proper level would restore the limited drainage originally designed in.

Al

The rigging tunnel is very shallow, and carries the wiring, steering cable, and the tank vent. It drains partly onto the tank (I said the drainage arrangement was odd) and partly out the starboard scupper; there is no drain plug.

John


John Kittredge
1991 16 SL - 2013 E-TEC 90
 
Alan Gracewski
#13 Print Post
Posted on 01/29/14 - 5:52 PM
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Ahah! Thank you John. I understand now. So the rigging tunnel and tank and port sump are all "normally" wet when the boat is in use...especially if you have a heavy load or lots of water draining onto the deck. I suppose there is only so much you can do on a 16 footer with an installed belly tank. So drilling the hole into the port sump is the easiest/cheapest option. Tank removal and raising its level is best to restore the original configuration, but is more expensive and invasive...and I suppose could be deferred to be done in the future if there are fuel tank issues that arise. I hope Kristin keeps us up to speed on what she does.

Al

 
gchuba
#14 Print Post
Posted on 01/29/14 - 6:32 PM
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From personal experience with a contaminated fuel tank (1979 22 ft. Revenge) clean up the fuel tank now that it is accessible. I see that the boat has an above deck tank. Is that because the previous owner bypassed the deck tank? Al was fortunate. On my Revenge the fuel tank deck cover extends underneath the cabin. Have a shop cut in some 4 inch or 6 inch holes fore and aft (either side of baffle) and get a couple of access plates. Future maintenance on the tank could then be easily done in place. You could also check out the drainage.
gchuba

 
thegage
#15 Print Post
Posted on 01/29/14 - 6:44 PM
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The tank cover came from the factory with two access plates.

Another point: The picture is a little dark, but it looks like the trailer has rollers rather than bunks? If this correct and not a temporary arrangement you're going to need to swap over to bunks and also to have at least two keel rollers to properly support the hull.

John K.


Edited by thegage on 01/29/14 - 6:44 PM
John Kittredge
1991 16 SL - 2013 E-TEC 90
 
kristin
#16 Print Post
Posted on 01/29/14 - 7:19 PM
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Thanks for your responses!


gchuba: A friend will help me remove the tank this weekend. Fortunately for this boat the deck cover isn't too hard to remove — about 20 screws on the floor and half as much at the stern — so here's hoping the tank is just as easy to get out (dot dot dot). The portable tank was used by the previous owner's son when prepping the boat for sale; I was told that the built-in tank was emptied some months ago, but we are going to properly clean it before giving it a shot. Also going to install new fuel lines as it's been sitting for ~2 years.


Al: Thanks for the photos! Very helpful. If I can add this PVC drain line below the existing line then I will try to imitate what you did there.


John, I might end up drilling a hole if I can find someone to guide me through it. Once we remove the gas tank this weekend I will see how it looks inside. Fortunately weather calls for a dry couple of days ahead. The trailer has bunks, not rollers. It doesn't have keel rollers though...


Will post pictures of the process as it happens!

 
gchuba
#17 Print Post
Posted on 01/29/14 - 8:45 PM
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Good for you. When the tank is out it might be worth your while to put in the access plates. (made by SeaBuilt). One of the methods for continued clean fuel is "fuel polishing" and they need the larger opening on both sides of the baffle for tank access. Good luck, it looks like a fun project and worth the effort.
gchuba


Edited by gchuba on 01/29/14 - 8:48 PM
 
kristin
#18 Print Post
Posted on 04/23/14 - 4:09 PM
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Hey there folks, at long last I have my boat in the water. Did one heck of a lot of work! This is my first boat and I chipped each piece of paint with pride.... and wore a mask :)

It took me about a month to completely clean the bottom and prep for painting. It had been sitting in the water for about 2 years (or more...). A few small blisters but nothing bad. Sanded with 300, rubbed everything down with denatured alcohol, and put two coats of Pettit Trinidad antifouling paint on.

Bottom before and during: http://i1313.photobucket.com/albums/t...f15896.jpg
Yum: http://i1313.photobucket.com/albums/t...5ddda.jpeg
Final product: http://i1313.photobucket.com/albums/t...fae876.jpg

Gas tank foaming was another story... that was a b**ch. I should have purchased a second quart of marine foam. Learned my lesson there. Ran a line of Funny Pipe from starboard to port for drainage (as with this boat, the drain hole is too high, leading to a lot of standing water. Everything is sealed with silicone to prevent water getting in -- including the access plates. Painted the foam with acrylic paint to prevent water getting in. Tank was fully cleaned before installation.

Clean and ready for a clean tank: http://i1313.photobucket.com/albums/t...ef74d4.jpg
Tank before and after: http://i1313.photobucket.com/albums/t...e22207.jpg

There was a crack near the starboard console and when I removed the tank cover, the floor was a bit wet underneath as a result (especially over the sump). Using Git Rot and sawdust, I was able to fill the holes formed over time, and sealed it with Marine Tex. It's solid as a rock now.

Pix from repairing the floor: http://i1313.photobucket.com/albums/t...a70ee1.jpg

Had an overheating problem with the engine. I couldn't get over 3000RPM without going in to overheat mode. Found a terrific Yamaha mechanic down here who discovered and cleaned all of the corrosion out of the water jacket, discovered the boat had the wrong spark plugs and too-long throttle cables, got the bow lights working, etc etc.

Waiting at the shop: http://i1313.photobucket.com/albums/t...34711a.jpg
Photo of corrosion in water jacket: http://i1313.photobucket.com/albums/t...4c90d0.jpg
And new water flow from indicator! http://i1313.photobucket.com/albums/t...8a4e96.jpg

I have a question for those of you with 90HP Yamahas and 15-16 foot Whalers regarding your prop size. My mechanic thinks that the current prop (it's a stainless 17K) has too big a pitch, and that it should be around 15. I have had someone else tell me a pitch of 19 would be better. Right now I get to about 4000RPM / 27MPH, but I think it should get closer to 5000 RPM per the mechanic.

Any advice on what pitch the prop should have?


Edited by kristin on 04/23/14 - 4:12 PM
 
Phil T
#19 Print Post
Posted on 04/24/14 - 6:49 AM
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The motor should hit 5500 rpm at wide open throttle (WOT), with you and a light load.

Before testing a prop:

Take off the foil.
Ensure engine is mounted at least 2 holes up

Top engine bolt holes

0 <--bolt here is "all the way down"
0 <--bolt here is "1 hole up"
0 <--bolt here is "2 holes up"
0 <--bolt here is "3 holes up"

Check throttle cable at WOT position is hitting the stop and carbs are in correct positions.

On the water make two WOT runs at opposite directions and record WOT speed via GPS an the rpm's. Note wind, wave and weather conditions.

Report back.

 
Alan Gracewski
#20 Print Post
Posted on 04/24/14 - 4:51 PM
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Congratulations Kristin! I hope you have lots of fun with that boat. From the looks inside the engine, it was not flushed with fresh water after use in salt water. Hope it lasts a few more seasons and that the salt has not done too much damage...especially to the cylinder head to cylinder block mating surfaces. Corrosion in that area can cause the head gasket to leak, and sometimes is so bad that a new head gasket won't help as too much aluminum is gone from either the head or the block. Anyway, you may as well run it until something major happens, then repower.

With your "do it yourself" efforts you have learned a lot about the boat. And, when you use it, it will be that much sweeter after all your work! Thanks for the follow up and photos.

Al

 
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