Before Posting, Please Read Our Posting Guidelines Below.
1. Use the full 4 digit year for everything you are asking your question about. Example: 1962, 1988, 2000, 2011 2. Include the correct name of your Whaler model. Example: Montauk 17, Montauk 170, Outrage 26, Outrage 260 3. Include the length when necessary. Example: 16, 17, 18, 20, 22 4. Do not post your email address anywhere on this site as it is already in your user profile.
Philippine mahogany was the original wood. It is hard to find anymore due to a few reasons. The wood used now is called Sapele mahogany and it is better looking due to its interesting ribbon grain appearance, and is a harder wood than Philippine. I buy it for $5.60 aboard foot 12"X12" by1".
Actually, Whaler used a variety of woods, all Mahogany-esque. Philippine mahogany is not really Mahogany nor is a specific species, it is a generic term for a variety of species of woods that look very much like true Mahogany.
Other names of the woods known as Philippine are Lauan and Meranti.
Spanish Cedar was used in early Whalers and it too was very Mahogany-esque.
Comments from early Boston Whaler catalogs (written, most likely, by Dick Fisher himself):
"The term mahogany where used in the folder refers to any of several woods including African and Philippine mahogany that are handsome and suitable"
"Where it best suits the purpose, wood is used, and it is handsome varnished mahogany, except for the casting platform on the Sakkonet which is painted pine. For the benefit of the Dept. of Commerce busybodies, mahogany means any wood we elect so to name. Don't worry about this, the wood is good; you might vote more thoughtfully however."
Sapele is not a true mahogany either, It is better looking than the original "mahoganies" used by Boston Whaler and is alot more dense, A one inch thick thwart made from sapele is alot stronger than a 5/4" Phillipine mahogany thwart
Mahogany as originally installed will be a darling wood to re equip your Classic 1969 model.
It will be a mater of availability to find the "right" material.
Nothing wrong with solid Teak either if you can afford it.
And for the true enthusiast working with wood
A handy link that may be of help. http://www.wood-database.com/wood-ide...ification/
