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1999 18' Dauntless has cracks in transom
huckelberry145
#21 Print Post
Posted on 11/06/13 - 5:49 AM
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Short Circuit wrote:
What did you use to replace the rotted plywood?


Nida Bond. I like the stuff but it's heavier than plywood. If I remember correctly,plywood weighs 4.7 lbs. a gallon and Nida Bond weighs 7.1. Hopefully you won't have to go this route but after my experience with PVC drain tubes I feel compelled to warn everyone that has them that they will fail. Or at least the sealant will.


Edited by huckelberry145 on 11/06/13 - 8:58 AM
 
Short Circuit
#22 Print Post
Posted on 11/07/13 - 6:47 AM
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Thanks for the input from all of you. It has given me a direction to start and a lot to think about.

Short Circuit

 
Weatherly
#23 Print Post
Posted on 11/07/13 - 8:06 AM
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My 1990 BW17 Striper had minor gelcoat cracks in the top exterior transom area, just below the weld line. I wetsanded the transom with 500-1500 grit, compounded the area with Matchless 205W, then waxed with mothers carnauba, and the lines are no longer visible.



 
Short Circuit
#24 Print Post
Posted on 11/09/13 - 5:41 AM
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I've never heard of Matchless 205W. The extent of my fiberglass expertise stops at Marinetex.
I hope to get to the Whaler next week and sand off the bottom paint. Then have the transom checked with a moisture meter to try and determine the extent of damage. The fiberglass guy at the yard is convinced they are cracks not scratches and were probably the result of the transom not strong enough to support the engine. I should learn a little more by the end of next week.

Short Circuit

 
Weatherly
#25 Print Post
Posted on 11/09/13 - 5:50 AM
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I think it is a dubious assumption that the cracks in your transom gelcoat are structural.

 
butchdavis
#26 Print Post
Posted on 11/09/13 - 7:01 AM
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SC,

Seek another fiberglass guy. The one at the yard lacks knowledge. I agree with Weatherly, there is not yet any reason to assume your gelcoat cracks are structural.

I'm far from a fiberglass or Whaler expert but from my reading here and on CW I've concluded that a moisture meter used on a Whaler has very dubious value. A search on moisture meters here and on the other site may be useful to you.

Take your time and get a few opinions. The season is over for you so you have several months to get this taken care of before you'll want to be on the water again.


Butch
 
Short Circuit
#27 Print Post
Posted on 11/11/13 - 6:38 AM
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You guys are great. Thanks for all the help. It will definitely be a slow process. Once I get the bottom paint removed it will be easier to see what is going on. I'll do a search on the meters, so I'll have a little knowledge when he checks it. I'll need to get a second opinion before any real work is started. I just don't want the cracks to reappear after I go thru the expense of repairing them.

Short Circuit

 
Weatherly
#28 Print Post
Posted on 11/11/13 - 2:40 PM
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My friend who worked at Boston Whaler Rockland MA factory from 1959-mid 1980's, and has more than 55 years of fiberglass/gelcoat repair experience, says that you can repair gelcoat cracks but the cracks will return after a period of time. Of course, it depends on the depth of the gelcoat cracks. sometimes you can sand out a crack in gelcoat, i.e., like I experienced with my BW17 Striper hull; this is the case if the crack does not go all the way through the gelcoat. Gelcoat thickness can be min 1/16 inch in some areas of the hull to 1/4 inch in the chine areas.

 
Short Circuit
#29 Print Post
Posted on 11/17/13 - 3:05 PM
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I have sanded most of the paint off and took more pics. They can be seen at:

http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/Sho...ry/Transom

It looks like all of the cracks are originating from holes drilled thru the transom above & below the water line (drains & motor mounting holes). I assume the factory not the dealer would have drilled the holes. Is it possible they just did a crummy job of drilling / sealing these openings which then led to all of these cracks?

Short Circuit


Edited by Phil T on 11/17/13 - 4:37 PM
 
Phil T
#30 Print Post
Posted on 11/17/13 - 4:44 PM
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For any hole drilled, the top should be beveled slightly so it's like a Y. This reduces the force of the screw from cracking the gel coat.

I am a little concerned in seeing the long cracks on the transom. I doubt these were caused by overtightened engine bolts. It could be the transom took a hit (fell off a trailer, landing in the skeg or some type of shock.

Given that they are only in the gel coat, I say route them out a bit (dremel type tool) and fill with gel coat.

 
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